The Truth About Paris

Real Camembert - An endangered species

2012-01-07T14:37:00.003+01:00

2 weeks ago we created an art and tasting event with a dinner menu based on food depicted in French Impressionist Art. While eating we listened to a commentary about the symbolism of the food and lifestyles of the late 19th century .

After dinner we were served to 2 cheeses and one of them was an AOC Camembert (AOC - Appelation Origine Controlee - is the term used to signify the origin of a food or wine and protected by the European Union) . It was surprisingly creamy with a very distinctive taste. I say surprisingly because I did not know there are only a handful of small producers left in Normandy making Camembert by hand and all the Camembert we find in the supermarket or outside France is made from industrialized manufacturing using pasteurized milk and aged so quickly that the cheese has not had time to complete it's natural aging process. I'm sure all you Francophiles out there know this but the point really hits home when you eat the Vrai Thing. None of our French guests that evening had in fact ever tasted Real Camembert. Francois Lemarchand reports that a study was made and 90% of French consumers could not tell the difference between AOC and non AOC Camembert.

I did not think much more of it until yesterday watching a broadcast on the French news program France24 there was a report that the organization representing AOC Camembert are about to sue manufacturers of processed Camembert for AOC infringement.

So why is this all happening. AOC Camembert sales have dropped.

So the issue is not a new one, however the interesting point here is that in fact the mass market manufacturer are being very shortsighted by trying to confuse the public into thinking that their Camembert is AOC by putting Fabrique en Normandie on the package as opposed to de Normandie.
A little sneaky and shortsighted.

LVMH understood many years ago when they went into the Champagne business that you need to invest in your prestige brands over the long terms because it simply allows you to charge more. Consumers are willing to pay significantly more for Champagne than sparkling white wines made by the same Methode Champenoise outside the Champagne region. This has allowed all the region's producers to charge more for their Champagne and so everyone benefits from keeping the prestige brands - prestige.

The industrial producers of cheese should do the same thing. Rather than try and be what they are not, they should help the small AOC producers who represent negligible competition (just based on their inability alone to produce large volume), with marketing funds and build a museum to highlight the Real Camembert, which you have to come to France to try. The cheese already has huge awareness in the west so now it is just a question of making it into a dream to increase demand, price and profits. Will Mr Truffle please move over.

What do you think? Do you like extra bacteria in your cheese or does anything round, white and fluffy work for you?

Will the Real Paris Please Stand Up

2011-11-07T14:00:00.001+01:00

Living in the 7th arrondissement I sometimes feel somewhat isolated from the Real Paris, where one can find real neighborhoods and people talk to each other!

I decided to make a plan this year to discover the outer arrondissement of Paris and its hidden secrets as well as the small lesser known museums.

One sunny day not so long ago, I met my friend Aze at metro Louis Blanc. We picked up a couple of bikes and off we went towards the the Canal de l'Orque and the newly re-opened Rotunde, which is one of the original customs buildings where "fermiers" were legally allowed to fleece traders coming into Paris. The renovated building is now a restaurant and cafe with somewhat reasonable prices so dont be scared to try it.

The whole area is undegoing a resurgence with new cafes and restaurants opening up all over the place. But if you want something a little more off the beaten track then head along the canal to the cafe boat where they serve crepes on deck, or the dinner and jazz boat. For young students on a low budget this is a great area to stay as it's close to the metro and there is a constant lively buzz day and night.

We continue to follow the river up to La Villette, another interesting part of Paris where in the summer there are out doors films, jazz festivals, city of Science, city of Music and plenty of places for kids to run around and let off steam.

We cylce on a relatively major road. I'm trailing behind Aze trying to catch my breath and take in all the local color. From Masonic restaurants to wholesale suppliers of Butcher's knives, hooks and other equipment for fun loving guys who just can't resist a Sunday morning slice and dice with the good ole boys down at the Menilmontant Abattoir, which opened in 1818 - thanks to our good friend Napoleon Bonaparte. For all you vegetarian supporter out there don't worry - change is in the air - 5 minutes away is Porte de Pantin Abbatoir which was converted to a fantastic concert space and location of the film the "Stones at the Slaughterhouse".

All of a sudden Aze heads into a gap between to buildings and we are transported to Bulgaria or a similar Eastern European country. The road heads up and it's a "get off your bike gradient". Pushing and puffing .... I arrive at Hansel and Gretel' house. Just Joking. It's a Russain Orthodox Church standing quietly in all its turqouise and orange glory.

Of course it is! what else could it be! Larry calling HQ - Good news - we are still on Planet Earth. I'm geeting thirsty so back on the bikes, feet off the ground, a quick prayer and whoosh back down the hill at a ridiculous speed without knocking anyone over - amazingly.

Actually, I'm getting thirsty writing this blog so back in a minute. I'm off for a Cup of Tea.... Ok I'm back ... So - turn right and over towards the Butte Chaumont and 19th century folie.

Time to head back and I'm glad of the bikes to cover some of the less interesting parts or our route. We arrive at the Canal St Martin and no its not over yet - for those with energy there's more beauty and hidden secrets but I think we'll leave that for another time. So until then, keep breathing deeply.

We Come in Peace ... As Long As We Don't Get Parking Tickets.

2011-07-14T17:44:00.133+02:00

Paris does not have the reputation of being a busy hive of UFO activity but I think it may be time to investigate what might be right in front of our very eyes!

What started this train of thought you might ask. So its like this.

I had planned to go to the Monumenta 2011 at the Grand Palais and realized 3 hours before closing it was the last day so off I rushed down the street, jumped on the 28 bus and 20 minutes later I was there.

Just a little background. This year, Anish Kapoor considered one of the most important living sculptors and 1991 Turner Prize Winner was asked to create an artwork inside the Grand Palais. He describes his work as a space within a space created from a single object, form, and color which relates to the height and light of the interior of the Grand Palais. Visitors will hopefully have a contemplative and poetic experience he says. You see where I'm going with this?

Through the black turning doors we went into the womb of Kapoor's creation. It was definately a 2001 Space Odessye experience and I feel he achieved his goal with this work. The color goes from black to Red as you look straight up to the 19th century iron work 45 meters above.

To the left and right large hollow tunnels join the main viewing area and you expect to see thounsands of space crafts sailing in. A soft echo reververates though the organic skin which seems to drown out the awkwards noises made by the onlookers.

Outside, the feeling is totally different. All you see are massive balls that take up most of the central space. It's as if the inside is like Dr Who's Tardis where the inside space exists in some altered reality.

But don't be concerned - there are other signs of extra terrestrial life in Paris to make it worth a visit.
Here there is a paque dedicated to the most recent re-opening by Gaston Doumergue on Le Pont de la Tournelle. He was they only ever non-catholic head of the Republic of France. They probably considered him an heretic so they had a a URO (Unidentified Religious Object) designed in the 1920s, hence the space age look of this statue of St. Genevieve.

Quelle Horreur!

You have to love the Parisians. Some of them will do anything to leave the planet.

It is only a question of time before Paris leaves the 18th century and joins the future.

Karl Lagerfeld has helped this rebirthing process by asking Zaha Hadid to design this Mobil Art Pavillion which Chanel gave to the Arab Institute.

Well Karl has to park his spaceship somewhere!

Little Eiffel, Big Eiffel, Little Eiffel, Big Eiffel,

2011-04-24T19:05:00.000+02:00

I live in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. At night with an exquisite sunset, it sparkles for 10 minutes every hour and is a joy to behold. It is magic. But when is enough enough? I look out the window in the morning and there it is. I walk down the street and there it is. You can see it from practically anywhere in Paris.

It's even in the water!

I think I must be coming down with something and I'm not the first. Robert Delaunay suffered from Eiffel Tower Syndrom and look what happened.

Andrew Graham Dixon puts it well in his excellent blog article on the subject. Here is an extract:

"Almost twice as tall as any other man-made construction of its time, the Eiffel Tower was viewed by Delaunay as an epitome of the modern age – a monument which seemed to condense all that made the early twentieth century such an invigorating and exciting time to be alive.

Robert Delaunay (1885-1941), Tour Eiffel, 1929
Oil on Canvas, signed and dated upper right, and reverse 82X65cm

The writer Blaise Cendrars, who was very close to the artist during the most feverish years of his attachment to the subject, described Delaunay’s struggles: "He was always haunted by the tower and the sight of it from my window much attracted him… No art formula known then could claim to solve plastically the case of the Eiffel Tower. Realism reduced it: the old laws of Italian perspective thinned it out. The tower rose in the Parisian sky like a hatpin. When we walked away from it, it dominated the city, stiff and perpendicular; when we approached it, it bent and leaned above us.

Will the same thing happen to me? It might. Without even realizing it I am making more and more reservations for dinner at the restaurant 58.

Once a symbol of hope and " the modern age to come", the Eiffel Tower has evolved into a powerfull living machine which energizes the 10 million visitors it draws each year to worship at its metal feet.

But it wants something in return!

"Feed me Seymour feed me" it demands, and a well oiled corporate machine spits out meals under the gaze of master chef Alain Ducasse and the City of Paris Office of Toursim and thousands of travel agents filling the conveyors belts of people constantly moving up and down the Tower's elevators sucking life from its meal of multi-national riders, directly into its metal veins.

It's starting to take on the qualities of the Monolith in Arthur C. Clarks 2001 Space Odyssey. But one has to ask who is controlling it.

I think we are reasonably safe at the moment but Ill keep an eye on things and let you know if they start serving Soylent Green up there. In the mean time Ill look for my prayer breads and chant my new mantra Big Eiffel, Little Eiffel, Big Eiffel, Little Eiffel.....

Remember, you can buy your own Eiffel Tower to take home with you. Replicas are available in all shapes, colors and sizes starting at 1 Euro.

That's pretty cheap for symbol of France or for some Pyramid Power don't you think?.

Read All About it "Where's the Cheese"

2011-03-01T16:32:00.001+01:00

Paris? Try Again. London!

It is fascinating that the British love anything French... well nearly. Let's see ... cheese, art, wine, pastries, restaurants, perfume ... need I continue. Those things that they imagine will add a little culture and luxury.

Painting by Duffy in the Courtauld Gallery

Champagne Bar at St Pancreas Station

Patisserie Valerie at Covent Garden

Even stranger, is that the feeling is not mutual. Take the Eurostar train to Paris and you will not find cream tea, scones, bangers and mash, fish and chips, landscapes by Constable, English wine and a British sense of humor - (unless you come to my place). What you will find is WH Smith and PG Tips at Bon Marche. If very lucky Coleman's mustard at Carrefour. Sometimes I want to shout out.

Where's the Marmite!!!!

On my last return trip from London I brought back 500 PG Tips Tea Bags. I made sure to tell the custom's official in advance in case he thought I was smuggling some prohibited substance. And, in Paris, it seems British products fit that classification.

Now, I have heard there are 365 cheese varities in France, some say its more like 500 BUT did you know that as much as the British love their creamy French camambert they are not letting the grass grow under their feet. I was surprised to learn that there are over 700 cheese varieties in England.

"Well I never" as my grandma would say!!!

What else are those devilish Brits doing when they aren't annoying the French. Making great wine. But that's a tale for another day.

"The British Cheese Board thoroughly applauds the decision by Tesco to source all of its own label Mild, Medium and Mature Cheddar from British cheesemakers, ploughing an additional £100 million into the British cheese industry. The decision will see Tesco, already the biggest customer for British Cheese, buying 55,000 tonnes of British-made Cheddar a year, 20,000 tonnes more than previously."

The Judgement of Paris

2011-01-29T14:34:00.001+01:00

Last week I went to London to see my 98 year old grandma. Reaching that age is a remarkable feat of determination if nothing else. A few hours after my visit she passed away. There was a sense of completion for the family and as things go we were all lucky that we has a chance to say goodbye. During times like this, many of us reflect on our own lives, what is really important and what has little meaning. I found, during the following days, a need to "get out" . Sunday morning my brother and I took the train to Dulwich, passing the iconic Battersea Power Station we headed toBritain's oldest Picture Gallery.

One painting in particular caught my eye. The "Judgement of Paris" painted in 1716 by Adriaen van der Werff, which reflects the French court taste of the time and was purchased by the Duc d'Orleans in 1718. The scene depicts the Trojan prince Paris who has been invited to be the judge of a beauty contest between Venus, Juno and Minerva. Not an enviable job when you know you are going to piss-off 2 women and Goddesses to boot. Of course this was the case and the lines were drawn for the Trojan Wars, and as they say the rest is legend.

This reminded me of another Judgement of Paris held in 1976. This time it was a "taste off" between French and American Wines performed by a French Panel. The panel seems quite happy to do this thinking that the French wines would win the day. The problem was that they didn't and all of a sudden they said the results were not statistically relevant. The lines were drawn and fortunately there have been no mortalities even though the French sommeliers are still at war over the issue.

In some people's eyes the art, food and wine may not be the best in the world but that does not mean that its not bloody good. When you come to Paris, you are also going to be judged! The French love doing it because it makes them feel better about themselves and unfortunately the school system here does a terrible job in teaching kids self-worth. So be kind - be compassionate. Just realize that it is only an individual point of view and not one held by the whole world. Add to the soup the usual strikes, anger, frustation over losing their position as a global leader and slowly being marginalized et voila. So don't worry about the curt waiters, pushy locals or abrupt salesgirls wondering what you could be possibly doing in their places of work and worship. Just find what's best for you and don't let other people's judgements get in the way.

And, if you want a French fix without the attitude you can always pop over on the Eurostar to London for a few days and see some of the best of Fragonard, Watteau and Boucher in the world at the Wallace Collection.

Salon du Vintage – Pretentiousness the Parisian way

2010-12-20T23:11:00.000+01:00

This event was advertised as 2 days of Shopping, Lounging, Drinking, and Re Mixing in the heart of the Marais.

We arrived shortly after the opening. The glass door slid open and we were met by a taciturn security guard busy checking that no one would leave with more than they bargained for. 3 euro allowed us the privilege of entry so in we strolled past the Eiffel Tower girl who I think was perhaps supposed to take the tickets and was already exhausted.

The main selling room was more like a rat’s maze where sellers were crammed into an area no bigger than my apartment. Gulp! The presentation was less than impressive and the quality looked mostly well-worn, like old throw always.

In Paris one can actually find elegant vintage haute couture, and second-hand clothes of distinction not to mention super vintage clothing auctions with fashions from the past 80 years. The few accessory dealers had little imagination and competed with 2 furniture / decorative arts sellers to round out the vintage theme.

There was a slow moving single narrow passage way between the clothing racks, which felt more like creeping through making ones way through creeping vines. At the far end of the room was a barman ready to mix a drink for those who survived the squashing and squeezing. No wonder the girls were so skinny!

Dr. DJ was spinning his vinyl discs re-mixing our nerve ends or was he trying to program us to buy buy buy. But hey, that’s part of the initiation rites of being or becoming a hip and trendy Parisian, form over substance!

Really rather a ridiculous waste of time and the only second hand experience here was the cloud of cigarette smoke we inhaled at the exit 20 minutes later.

There are many ways to enjoy vintage Paris fashions, but this ain’t one of them!

What does George Clooney and Napoleon Have in Common?

2010-11-29T22:41:00.001+01:00

I was fortunate to have been welcomed to a weekend break from Paris to Como at the beginning of November by an exhilerating cool breeze and a bright golden sun. I was able to see and feel the best of automn colors on the Italian lakes. The locals were enjoying a tranquil lunch at their favorite restaurants and the streets were quiet with intermitant sounds of foosteps and the occassional car.

I immediately felt part of this small sleepy town with it's Church, the lake and the little village of Bronate pearched high above the town and easily accessed by funicular. I knew that at around sunset that ride was definately going to be on my A list of things to do.

Saturday was spent at a travel workshop in Lugano, that somewhat cold and pretty lakeside town in Switzerland where the shops shut early, the clocks tic in unison and the rich count their money.

Sunday morning it poured from start to finish. But, this did not stop a lake Como visit by boat and even though the rain and mist envelopped the boat, it was still exquistiely beautiful.George Clooney and Napoleon Bonaparte agree. They both liked to vacation in Lake Como. Napoleon would visit Villa Melzi to visit his vice President of the Italian Republic as well as stays Villa Olmo close to the end of his career. Hey even Emporers need time off to relax - world domination is a tiring business. George Clooney I guess used to like to visit until the locals and tourists could not leave him in piece and quiet, which frankly is not that realistic when you have a house on one of the most beautifull sections of the most beautifull lakes in Italy. The rich and famous come and go but Opus Dei stays. You knew they had their headquarters there. Didn't you?

David Hockney Illuminates Paris

2010-11-01T13:02:00.002+01:00

Imagine stepping down a few steps into a dimly-lit gallery, and discovering a small silent film running with David Hockney painting the Eiffel tower on an iPad. This must be one of the first ever exhibitions to be entirely emailed to the Foundation's Gallery, Foundation Pierre Berge -Yves Saint Laurent, or any Gallery for that matter.

Pierre Berge has always been prescient, recognizing significance and potential. Hockney's more than 1000 paintings on the iPhone and iPad represent a turning point in the the art world, a merger of the old traditions with the new technology.

Wall display of iPhones small format paintings

David Hockney has worked with the Brushes application on his iPhone since 2008. More recently he has worked on an iPad. These tools and this medium are so expressive in his hands. He is a masterful draftsman and a dynamic colorist, and they really do look like Hockneys. The exhibition is without words, sounds, labels, or Apple logos.

20 or more iPads.Some of yesterday's art was different from today's array. New art can be sent daily.
hence the title "Fresh Flowers".

Shooting in the Dark

Set in a dimly-lit gallery space of two rooms, one wall had about 30 iPhones simply mounted. The wall to the left had a long oblong box with about 25 or so iPads mounted ,each one by a simple wooden wedge. Not a cable or cord in site. A very low tech installation for a high tech apparatus.

The art is dazzling the luminous subjects have a lot of vibrancy. He tended to choose subjects with reflective surfaces, like glass, water, and sunsets.

Screen Projections

In the adjoining room there is a large sitting place. Opposite the sitting area is a screen the size of three large paintings on which the paintings are projected from the back. Even in this larger format the images hold together. One woman asked me where she could buy one for her home. Apart from the pleasure Hockney is having of painting this way, these works have not been monetized; however several artists have recently created New Yorker covers with this program on the iPad.

On some of the iPads along the wall, you can see the paintings actually being painted, the steps Hockney took, it looks like animation.

The only thing is you don't see are the pop-up brush and color pallets. You do not see the decisions he made about color, line weight, opacity, or effect, etc. If you have worked with this application you can infer these decisions. The exhibition, catalogs were not ready yet, I had to put my name on a list.

I think this exhibition is a significant first. The fact that one can create art and have it virtually delivered anywhere almost instantaneously is important. With moving billboards, and changeable-light-covered buildings it's like the future depicted in Blade Runner but not at all as bleak.

David Hockney Image, Vanity Fair November 2010

Contribution by Debra Healy

Divine and Conquer - Empire Style from Rome to Paris

2010-10-06T10:48:00.001+02:00

I always enjoy travelling to Rome and the region of Lazio (Latina). In addition, to the great food, wine and people, I am interested in the influence Rome has played in the style and architecture of Paris and more recently I have discovered some odd links to Divinity.

It really all starts with Napoleon. He was so impressed by the grandeur and conquests of Imperial Rome, and himself, that he made, revivied, and stylized its great icons in his own taste. This is the origin of Empire Style.

Here are examples of 2 triumphal columns.

The first is Trajan's Column in Trajans Forum across from the Victor Emmanuel II monument in Piazza Venezia, which was completed in 113AD.On top sits St Peter.

The second is the Vendome Column in Place Vendome with - yes you guessed it, Napoleon Bonapartre is pearched on the top and dressed as a Roman Emperor. Not a shy man by all acounts.

Of course this is a discussion for volumes of books so this story is just a small but quite interesting snipet of history that I discovered last week when visiting Lazio.

So we know Napoleon was a big fan of Italy, he invaded it and in 1796 and took over the Papal States. Always good to have a Pope or two on the payroll.

Now, you may not be familiar with Napoleon's brother Lucien who was a real rabel rouser and smart to boot. He had become disillusioned with the policies and ideas of his brother back in France so he decided to live quietly in the Castelli Romani. In 1804 he probably used some of his Napoleonic muscle to pursuade the Pope to sell him Villa Ruffinella, which is now a large hotel postioned in a lovely setting above Frascatti know for its white wine and mild climate. In 1810 he was capture by the British while trying to sail to American but by 1814 was back in Italy. We was made Prince of Canino.

Where is Canino you may ask? Left at the crossroad I reply and off we go.

Now you should also know that at this time Lucien was remarried to Alexandrine de Bleschamp, with whom he had 9 children. Alexandrine had been previously married to a banker and I'm guessing liked to live in a "certain style". Now stay with me here - Her husband hasn't had a steady job for 24 years, they have 9 kids, big house in the coutnry and like to live well. You need cash! What do you do. Head north to Canino and get into a business where your costs are low and the demand is sky high. I'm waiting ... have you guessed? No... I'll give you a clue. Canino sits close to an important Necropolis at Vulci where there were thousands of Etruscan artifacts sitting around and ready for the picking. In October 1828 the couple started excavating. Within a 4 month period the Bonaparte's shipped 2,000 artifacts to France, American, and Germany in only 4 months. Not bad eh? With all that money coming in you can image how Divine that family felt and their influence must have been immense. These events where the source of the Etruscan Revival Jewlery with creators like Castellani and Giuliano, but thats a subject for another time.

Practical Divinity
If you want to feel divine for a few days this is what you can do. Book yourself into the Ritz for 3 days. Request a room with a view of the Vendome Column, where you can wistfully imagine it's you up there. If you get bored, and of course how could you with an imagination like that, head over to the Arc de Triomph to lift your spirits or visit the Louvre and see a few pieces from the Canino Collection before heading to a local bar for another kind of Etruscan Revivial.

Then hop on a plane and in 2 hours you are in Rome. Stay a few days and immerse yourself in Ancient style, and there are plenty of neo-classical style hotels near the Forum. Take a day to head north to Canino and pass by Montefiascone for a glass of Est Est Est, a plate of local cheese and a plate of pasta swimming in amazing olive oil from the local co-op before a visit to the ruins where you can dream about the Glories of Rome Now that's Divine.

Here is the lanscape as they left it. Fully Excavated!

Romans, Fragments, Reflections, and Dreams

2010-08-01T19:40:00.001+02:00

I have a curious fascination with the Viadcut de Passy and the Village of Passy. What I like about the viaduct and Bir Hakeim bridge is that it has 2 levels. One for trains and one for cars, bikes, and pedestrians, and all this above the Seine.

From a distance, it ressembles the magnificent Pont du Gard in Provence, the largest Roman aquaduct in the world.

I decided that the day shoudl be about trying to see beyond what's was right in front of my eyes.

Next stop, one of my favorite passages. Its long steps lead the eye on to some magical destination filled with grand buildings and magical light.

I dare not go down them. I don't want to be disappointed.

Walking along the street I peer through the ornate iron work representing both the Haussmann and Art Deco periods.
.

There are reflections everywhere. Highly polished floors, windows, metal accessories reflect the light and the buildings. Nothing is what it seems.

Hi and low, reflections produce fragments of histories. It just depends where you stand and when.

The light bends reality to fit inside irregular forms like ancients stones that tell part of the story and we are left to our imaginations to fill in the blank.

So if you are visiting Paris and would like to learn how to bend light, change reality or learn other types of alchemy, send me an email or just think it - if you dare!

Marche Aligre - More Than You Bargained For

2010-06-22T19:23:00.000+02:00

I always enjoy hanging out at the Gourmet School of Paris run by my buddy Genevieve, one of the best chefs in Paris, objectively speaking of course. A few weeks ago, on a rather brisk Saturday morning I met up with 4 folks visiting from America who were about to embark on a gastonomic adventure with Madame Genevieve.

But before their morning of culinary delights, we had a rendez-vouz at the Marche Aligre a rather fascinating food market.

As the sellers were setting up in the covered market called Marche Couvert Beauvau, I was surprised to see tables outside the food hall being prepared to sell antiques and bric-a-brac.

It was rather an unusual mix of cloathes, vegatables, flowers, fruit, second- hand cloathes, antique paper, vinyl records, dies and stamps, books and an odd assortments of other interesting items.

The one thing that ties everything togeather were the vendors, who, all seem to be related by a strange 12th arrondissement lingo and market sales temprement you find in any city around the world.

There was one vendor who seemed to be attracting the most attention. I could not identify many of his object's d'art and I had nor brought my bottle of alchohol gel to clean my hands, if you know what I mean, not but I was sure these items would end up being offered in other markets around Paris at a somewhat higher price.

Meanwhile, back in the food market, we discovered fabulous suppliers of meats and cheese both French and Italian.

We continued outside along rue d'Aligre and to Paris-Peche the fishmonger and from there the spice shop on the corner. There are many small shops catering to the North African community so there are some interesting places to sit down for a quick pick me up of sweet mint tea and even sweeter desserts.

Don't forget that France had it fair share of colonial expansion and integration. Remind me, that came under which of these headings in the French National Motto "Liberty, Equality, or Fraternity"

All in all it a great fun place and worth a trip on your own or why not combine it with an amazing cooking class at Chez Genevieve.

Life on the Edge... of Paris

2010-05-20T12:27:00.000+02:00

On the other side of the 18th arrondissement lies Saint Ouen, which probably means nothing to most out-of towners. A thin line of uninspiring motorway separates the metro and the entrance of the largest Antique market in Europe (I think - I'm open to being corrected), which starts at rue des Rosiers.

But if you are one of those antique hungry, weathered-look furniture lovers, you might head here in search of one of the largest antique centers in Europe, which we 'blocals' ( that's a british local) just call Clignancourt.

I came to visit one Wednesday. The clothing market had dissappeared leaving only a few North African men sitting at cafes discussing the news of the day and absence of the hustle and bustle of the bargain shoppers was replaced by as sort of sombre isolation.

Rue Des Rosiers was nearly completely deserted except for a couple of cafes one of which opened up to this amazing back room with tables, sound system and large portrait of Rheinhardt Djangoo, because this is where he used to play.

The market was like a ghost village. Closed up with a few shutters half-open as their owners covertly delivered their latest treasures ready for the weekend market or do a quick restauration.

It's hard to grasp the scale of this place on the weekend when the market is open for trading. Thousands of dealers guarding their treasures and ready to extoll their value to American tourists eager to acquire a piece of French history. But for a price of course, because this is not just any antique. This is an antique from "Clignancourt" that has probably been re-stored, re-painted, re-made, re-enamled, re-delivered, and even re-acquired. (By the way it is Clignacourt not "Agincourt" which us British love to reminisce about how we beat the French during the Hundred Years War in the 15th Century. Yes our nostalgia for the good old days goes back quite a ways).

At the far end of the street was a market that was open. I made of up 50% of the clientele and was able to quietly examined the garden antiques that seems to be placed just right as it they were props in a movie set.

4pm and time to go pick up the kid from the swimming competition around the corner. Of course! why else do you think I would go up there on a weekday.

To find the local color!

The Value of Freedom in France

2010-05-13T16:54:00.158+02:00

Seeing the portraits of the French Resistance fighters taken by the Lithuanian photographer Izis was still fresh in my mind when I received a call from my Hong Kong photographer who was visiting Paris for a couple of days. I suggested a short walking tour of some places not so often visited by tourists and so we met infront of metro Bir Hakim and headed towards the replica of the Statue of Liberty on the ile des Cygnes, which faces west towards New York City and greets thousands of people on dinner cruises proclaiming deomcaracy and freedom is alive and well in France.

Walking along this lovely island in the middle of the Seine, one can find a few moments of tranquility and reflection before reaching the bilevel Viaduct de Passy, Pont Bir Hakeim and another monument pointing towards the Eiffel Tower, honoring the French forces in Africa who against all odds managed to keep the German Army at bay during the 2nd World War and allowed the British troops to regroup and create a successfull offensive.

We were not the only ones reflecting.

Next stop, the Trocadero, and here we passed by a sculptured wall honoring General de Grasse, who led the French fleet against the British in the American War of Independance and won. Unfortunately he did not fare so well in the following year and was criticised to the point where he demanded a court martial in order to clear his name. I guess you are only as good as your last major victory in France!.

Walking between the Seine and the Grand Palais there are more stone generals sitting on horses with their swords raised high charging ahead. At the end of the Voie Georges Pompidou stands the Statue of Father Komitas, which commemorates the Armenian Genocide of 1915 and honors the French-Armenians who died during the first and second World Wars.

In only a couple of hours we have been reminded of the deaths of millions upon millions of people who have died for Freedom. And, we have not even scratched the surface. Somehow it is hard to imagine how we even got to this point without everyone killing each other.

What are we supposed to think about all this? I must admit all I keep thinking about is how many of these generals who are honered had hearts harder than the stone scultpures erected for them and of the young soldiers who they sent out to be canon fodder.

I'm always worried by politicans or political systems that go on about how "good" they are fighting for freedom and justice. So where does France stand in all this? Do all these monuments really represent the fight for equality and justice or is it all bravado, which hides insecurity and protection of the status quo.

I know what I think. What do you think?

David On David at the Louvre

2010-04-04T22:14:00.002+02:00

David photographing the Consecration of the Emperor Napoleon I and Coronation of the Empress Josephine in the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris on 2 December 1804. by Jacques-Louis David

The bus and car fumes evaporated as we walked up Rue Rivoli the wrong way. Ahead was what looked like a large black snake blocking traffic. As we approached, the serpent became more like a millipede squeezing it's way between the narrow arches and towards the entrance in the glass Pyramid of the Louvre . I was wondering if we should have bought tickets beforehand. Strange music eminated from the crowd so we decided to snuck in the side entrance and entered through the Carousel de Louvre - no line and 5 minutes to buy tickets. Debra and I were visitng with David Behl our friend from New York who is one of the best, and most published jewelry photographers.

After the years of living in Paris, the glass pyramid has really grown on me. It is yet another one of those etheral portals that transport you to another dimension or at least another state of mind. When I first saw it I did not think it fit with the rest of the old palace, but now 180 degrees later, I think it is a great work of art, just a sign of my maturity in taste and understanding - well at least I got there in the end!.

It is a place you can breathe despite the thousands of people swarming in and out and the lozenge shaped panels are really a wonderful counterpoint to the Louvre's original window panes. I wanted to spend more time photographing but I was sucked into one of the entry tunnels in and off we went.

Passing the sleepy stone heads.

Semi naked Venus de Milo in the Sully Wing posing for gawkers and trigger happy photographers flashing away, more like a Peep show than a place to worship the gods.

2 Winged Victories

One silent and majestic the other from New York ...

We arrived at the Salle Daru and one of my favorite rooms, filled to the ceiling with the the great Neo Classical paintings by Jaqcques-Louis David. I love the geometric order and powerfull figures who always seem to have a strength of purpose. A number of years ago I was fortunate enough to buy - and later sell - 2 drawings, which were studies for a larger work, drawn by artists in his school and one had the same outstretch arm and hand found in so many of his works.We lingered and photographed before it was time to end at a covered courtyard I had not visited, the Cour Marly which has wonderfull natural light and sculptures.

Horses of Marly, completed in 1745 under Louis XV

And it was time to go. As this was David's last afternoon Debra took him into W.H. Smith to buy boxes of PG Tips, a great Briitsh tea brand with chimpanzees printed all over the box. Its really a nostalgic British thing so don't go there because we live on this tea.

Capturing Paris at Night

2010-03-12T21:03:00.000+01:00

Here we are, it's Sunday night at the Onze Bar in the 11th arrondissement on rue Jean Pierre Tambaud between Belleville and Winter Circus at the edge of the 3rd arrondissement. This is not an area you will find tourists but you will find loads of young Parisians hanging out and drinking 2 euro beers in dark laid back watering holes.

Tonight is a special once a year get together of budding actors and directors networking their buns off. The actors want to get seen even if it means not getting paid and the directors want actors they don't have to pay. So its a real 'shidduch'.

Here I am with Chase. He's 14 the only kid in the place. So he's 'In like Flint' . When you need a young actor speaking English or French - where do you go? Hey - its not easy. In fact just to give you an idea how hard it is to find actors who will work for free - 2 young South American girls asked me if I would be in one of their short films. Have to think about that. Short may not be long enough. I starred in a short film already and have the video to prove. I played a very menacing character... So watch it!.

So after a couple of hours of "banter en flannerant" and having fun with the kids we left. This is where the story really starts actually. I started off on a tangent rather in the middle so I wouldn't lose you.

Just by chance we saw that right from the bar we could catch the 96 Bus to Gare Montparnasse, that goes through the city on a very exciting route and I thought it would be fun to try and capture the feeling of Paris at night with my iphone. The definition of the photos is not the best but the slight blur from the moving bus and glow of the city street lights gives you a feel of what is was like.

Looking up the hill toward Bellville

Opposite Metro St Paul

Izis at Hotel de Ville

Theatre du Chatelet

Notre Dame on the Left

A Cafe at the crossroad at Odeon

Comme des Garcons at Night

Enchanted Paris - The Folly of War and Children

2010-02-24T23:22:00.001+01:00

It was raining and I was standing in line outside of Hotel de Ville with a newspaper on my head. I didn't care. I had been looking forward see, for the first time, the work of one of the great photographers of the 20th century. I was unfamiliar with; Israëlis Bidermanas (1911-1980) who was a Jewish emigre from Lithuania.

He moved to Paris in 1930, penniless, without papers and not speaking French to pursue a career as a painter; even though he had been an apprentice photographer in Lithuania.

By 1933 he was offered a job running a photographic studio in the 13th arrondissement owned by a Jewish family.He ended up marrying their daughter. Soon afterwards he had his own studio specializing in portraiture. This afforded him the ability to follow his artistic interests and visits to museums and art galleries.

Visitors are immediately struck by back-lit portraits mounted on a light box, of French Maquisards, resistance fighters, which are followed by photos of the different periods and themes of his life including the French circus, Parisian street life, London, which he visited twice in the 50s, and Israel.

During World War II, he left Paris and went to the Limousin region around Limoges, where he adopted the pseudonym Izis and where he was arrested and tortured by the Nazis. He was freed, joined the FFI and became a resistance fighter. At the end of the war he photographed his companions. When they came to pose their shorts they were clean and had freshly shaved faces. Izis was not interested. He told them to come back 3 days later unshaven and wearing the same shirts. He wanted to capture the image of these men right out of battle. He captures the quiet solitary sadness of the heroes with tired eyes longing for happier times. This feeling seems to come through so many of his photos.

When I discovered he was Jewish, I felt a bond and an understanding of his point of view. My great-grandmother and grandfather were born in Vilnius and moved to London at about the same time. They too lived from hand to mouth in a country where they did not speak the language.

After the war Isis returned to Paris and lived in the 14th near rue Alessia. He became friends with writers and artists including the French poet Jacques Prevert, who wrote the text for several of his books. He also knew Brassai, Paul Eluard, Mistinguett, Collette andmant others.
There are a few photos of animals at the zoo behind bars. Their eyes seem to resemble the Maquisards', helpless behind bars longing to be free but resigned to their fate. There is a second series which are views through an open oval window, which look on to scenes of a forest--somthing like a scene from the Lion, Witch and the Wardrobe. A child's fantasy garden filled with decay and intrigue. A little like impressions many of us have of the circus. As children, we see them as magical places. But we age we see the sadder more desparate realities of the lives the clowns and circus performers. Izis was very close to the painter Marc Chagall and they worked on a Circus project and it became a subject that Izis became well know for.

Izis joined Paris Match in 1950 and remained with it for twenty years, during which time he could choose his assignments. His work was included in the 1951 MoMA exhibition "Five French Photographers," organized by Edward Steichen that included Brassai, Henri Cartier Bresson, Robert Doisneau and Willy Ronis with who he joined as the leaders of the movement of humanist photography. And in 1952 his work was included in the exhibit " The Familly of Man".

In the early 50s, Izis made 2 trips to London. The photos of working class life in Whitechapel, a lower class neighborhood in the East End, are extraordinary.

The exhibition's name is inspired by the photographer's first book "Paris Des Reves" or Paris of Dreams, published in 1950 but I think also partly because Izis was known by his contemporaries as the Dreamer his photos reflect this.

I love his photos of the fisherman at the side of the Seine. He uses the geometry of their rods like a line painting. There is a sort of minimalist idea behind these photos where the characters get lost in fantastic plethora of chaotic angles. Was Izis was influenced by Rodchenko and the Russian Constructivists or are these the dreams of a lost childhood?

Izis was drawn to Paris and the city inspired him like many other artists. However, you get the sense that the city does not play the most important role in his work. The people do. It is the people not the place that represents the soul of the country. The unsung heroes, the workers, the performers, laborers, and the cripples who lay by park benches like left over broken toys from the war with nowhere to go. But the photos don't make you feel sad. They are more like the observation of a child with "no judgement", simply "this is the way it is" .

Izis liked to capture moment of happiness with photos of children or lovers who try to catch a few moments of happiness in the shadow of a bridge, in a spot by the river hidden to onlooker or swinging behind the bars of a cage.

This is a marvellous exhibit not to be missed. If you are interested in penetrating the soul of the Paris during the 40s and 50s, you will not be disappointed.

Izis Paris des Reves,
To May 29, 2010
Mairie de Paris,
5, rue Lobau, 75004 Paris.
Admission Free

A Taste of Burgundy on the Seine

2010-02-07T21:53:00.001+01:00

The other day I was invited to a presentation given by food and wine producers from Burgundy. The venue was Bateaux Parisiens on the Seine river, which rises in the Cote d'Or not far from Dijon and then flows through Champagne to Paris and beyond to Le Havre.

I was interested in learning about Dijon because it is close enough by TGV fast train to Paris for a day trip to discover the famous Burgundy vineyards, food and country side, whereas Beaune is logistically a little far and awkward.

It was rather approporiate to hold the meeting here and even more so to discover and re-discover some great products, which you may be able to find in your local gourmet deli.

I was fashionably late as are all the "Best People" in Paris and missed a short presentation by Veuve Ambal who have made Cremant de Bourgogne since 1898, a white bubbly wine made with by the "method Champenoise" but not allowed to use the name Champagne of course. No matter - got to drink it latter.

This was followed by Les Anis de Flavigny, a company based in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, a medieval city classified as one of the most beautifull villages in France and makers of about 250 million little white Anise flavored bonbons each year.

There was Multo Petitjean, manufactures since 1796 of delicious spice bread with centers of jam and marmalade, cheese producer Gaugry, and Cassium, producers of Creme de Cassis. If you like Kirs - Dijon is the place to visit.

Finally, it was Edmond Fallot makers of the famous Dijon mustard since 1840, but based in Beaune. Go figure.

The meeting ended and it was time for a Kir. My iphone wouldn't work on the boat so I could see I was in for a long afternoon. So might as well have another.

Lunch followed and the first course was Beef Cheek with Dijon mustard accompanied by a nice light white wine. (It tasted much better than it looks food commrades!. )

As we sailed along the river, we passed the Musee d'Orsay and the usual suspects before the turn just after Notre Dame where we saw a group young BC BG dressed teenagers trying to be very "left bank" Bohemians. One had a guitar, one was striking and pose and one was waving at us after throwing an inanimate object at the boat.

The main course was served and it was the famous Poulet Bresse, an AOC protected mark and for good reason. These are "Chickens with a Mission". They are the elite of the Poultry World and treated accordingly. It is required that each chicken be given 100square feet of space to run wild and fed cereal and milk, and we are not talking about the General Mills stuff you find in Walmart. This is the real McCoy! Only 5% is exported so you have to come to France for a taste. The main dish was accompanied by a very nice premier cru which went brilliantly with a selection of cheese from our new friends at Gaugry.

The lemon tart for dessert was time perfectly to conincide with the turn at the Statue of Liberty. The rain was still hammering at the glass windowed roof after a short sunny reprise.

It's still winter in Paris.

So as you read this have a glass of Burgundy, listen to Satie's 3 Gymnopedies (I'm listening to the Michel Legrand version) and plan a visit to Burgundy.

Creative Living in Paris - What's New in my World

2010-01-30T20:38:00.003+01:00

My most creative idea to date. mTouch Paris

Just launched in partnership with software developer Sedona Latitude, the first free mobile app for the iphone called mtouch paris, which is the first mobile concierge service in Paris, which lets English speaking users plan and book the most exciting range of activities, tours, airport transfers and customized experiences 24/7 , without monthly fees, right here right now.

Activities such as cooking classes, wine tastings, horse and carriage tours, segway tours, perfume atelliers, coffee tasting classes, antique treasure hunts, photography tours, dinner cruises and loads more.

Many thanks to Terri for giving my own Creative Award Appellation, its like a DOC but you can't drink it.

You can see her creative ideas at http://thecountrypolitan.blogspot.com

For this CAA to work I have to reveal 7 things about myself and 7 blogs I read so here goes. Thank goodness it was not 8.

I am a British subject living in France.

I speak French.

I used to play bridge.

I used to dance ballroom and tango.

I enjoy Brittany in the summer.

This is the view from my living room window.

Arletty by Horst P. Horst 1934

I am in the travel business, and

I collect and sell vintage Photography and Art.

-7-

http://houseofbeautyandculture.blogspot.com/

http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/

http://www.annmah.net/

http://www.davidlebovitz.com/

http://porcelainsandpeacocks.blogspot.com/

http://diamondsandrhubarb.blogspot.com/

http://www.printmag.com/dailyheller/

Art, Dance, Films, & Sex in Paris

2010-01-05T12:05:00.042+01:00

Home of the French Can Can

Boulevard de Clichy has been an entertainment street since the mid 1850s, only a few decades after Marechal de Moncey beat off the invading Bolshoi Boys with a few swashbuckling veterinarian students. In the center of the Place de Clichy amongst the busy traffic circle stands a statue to honor him. And rightfully so because without his 'interference' Blvd de Clichy would not become home to the Moulin Rouge at number 82, the Cabarets Heaven (Ciel) and Hell (Enfers) at number 54 or Le Chat Noir Cabaret (The Black Cat) made famous by the Steinlen poster. And not to forget down the road the Casino de Paris where Mistinguett, Maurice Cheavalier and Josephine Baker were the headliners.

What became of the movie palaces, theatres, restaurants and nightclubs?

Last week, I was on my way to metro Anvers to do a little "reconnaissance" for a movie tour we will be offering in April. It was bloody cold outside but I took the opportunity to walk the "Golden Mile" starting at Place de Clichy.

A wonderful Art Deco style restaurant known for its great Sea Food

Around the Place today are multi-plex 'Movie Palaces'. Gone is the Gaumont Theatre, largest Movie Palace in the World which could hold 6,000 people. Unfortunately the theatre was destroyed and has been replaced by a rather sterile looking Ibis hotel.

Did you know, Gaumont is still the oldest film company in the world?

In 1905 Pathe was the largest film company in the world.

This colorful and vibrant area attracted many of the greatest painters, Toulouse Lautrec, Renoir, Whistler and Picasso lived at number 11. It is here in August 1911 that the police woke up Picasso early in the morning and arrested him for the theft of the Mona Lisa from the Louvre.

This street has always been filled with bars, food sellers and restaurants, however today there is a preponderance of North African immigrants serving kebabs, pizzas and galettes to foreign tourists. At number 6 is a rather sad looking Subway sandwich store. Hard to imagine this was once the home of Edgar Degas, most well known for his paintings of ballet dancers. Not surprising really given he could easily find models right outside his door

A little further on I saw a narrow break between two buildings connected by magnificent an Art Nouveau iron work and a sign which announced Cite Veron as if suddenly you would be magically transported to a far-away-kingdom a la C.S. Lewis.

I was certainly in need of a little fantasy at this point so I pierced the invisible veil and entered the narrow cobble street, bordered by private houses on the left and some plain modern buildings on the right. As I moved forward I could hear piano music so I had to investigate. Louder and louder it became until I could hear the pianist miss notes. At the end of the alley was a building with a door slightly ajar. I could just peek in saw dancers rehearsing. I decided to find the entrance and get a closer look.

I walked in, glad to feel the sudden warmth, and sat down in front of the open double doors of a large studio and watched ballet dancers working on their technique. I later discovered I was at the Academie des Arts Choregraphiques known to Rudolf Nureyev, Margot Fonteyn, and Mikhail Baryshinkov.

Dancers have always made interesting subjects for artworks and was felling quite artsy so I decided it was time to take a few photos. Hold on! everything was all blurry through my viewfinder. The freezing weather outside and sweat from the dancers inside was creating condensation on my lens. I couldn't dry it. What should I do? Eureka! I felt an "impressionist moment" coming on.

Not bad eh?

It was time to go. Back to the Boulevard. I picked up the pace and walked past the Museum of Eroticism, the Moulin Rouge and a stretch of rather nasty, uninspired sex shops until Metro Piaglle, an area that has inspired many films.

One of personal favorites is Melville's 1955 pre-new wave classic film noir Bob le Flambeur (Bob the Gambler). The film opens following the funicular from the Basilica of Sacre Coeur (Heaven) down the steep slope of Montmartre to Pigalle (Hell). The film was remade into the Good Thief with Nick Nolte.

In Pigalle the old movie theater seen below is now the Folies Pigalle, a large discotheque frequented by sleep deprived tounge-pierced teenagers dressed up as lost manga characters looking for the meaning of life on their journey to dawn.

So - that is the end of my little 'histoire'. Stay tuned for a future exploration on one of the most intersting areas of Paris. It's quite safe... to read that is!.

Chateaux de Versailles under Christmas Snow

2009-12-19T22:21:00.015+01:00

Its been a while since I have been able to visit the Chateaux de Versailles. I was rather fortunate to have received an invitiation from the Chateaux for a special visit to the newly renovated Royal Opera house this week. The presentation was followed by a flute of Champagne and pastries.

Generally, one hopes for a sunny day to appreciate the the grandeur of the palace and gardens. It was a rare opportunity to arrive under a quite blanket of snow. As I approached the golden gates, the snow created an air of tranquillity. I felt as if time had stopped. Louis XIV sits majestically on his horse, as if he is still ruling, and giving orders with his outstretched arm. There is no mistake, this is still his domain.

There were fewer people in Versailles, than usual, the day of my visit. But those who made the royal pilgrimage were in for a magical experience. The white snow made the gilt gold shine brighter, and the stone sculptures seemed more animated, like sleeping noble men and women, guarding the king.

As I passed through the golden gates, I understood the very real sense of Louis's obsession with his self-proclaimed position as the "Sun King". The scale of grandeur around the palace is unimaginable. It is 'theater' on the most dramatic scale. The Opera House is certainly one of the highlights of this royal stage, it is magnificent, filled with pomp and ceremony.

The building of the Opera House was started in1685 during the reine of Louis XIV. It took many years to complete, due to various wars, and its enourmous cost of construction. It was not until 1768 that King Louis XV gave the order to finish the building in preparation for the wedding of the Dauphin and Marie Antoinette in 1770.

The Opera House was actually rarely used due to the enormous costs involved in running it, particularly lighting the theatre for a single evening performance, which required 2,000 to 3,000 candles.

The recent renovation took 3 years. On September 21st, a special gala performance was staged and attended by President Sarkozy. The cast included the great Welsh bass-baritone Bryn Terfel singing an extract from Don Giovanni, listen here if you don't know him.

As sunset approached it was time to go home and dream of Christmas Past in Versailles. A soft purple haze envelloped the red and white lights from the street ahead, and the sound of baroque music floated up from the great organ in the Royal chapel.

A Childhood Dream Comes True in Paris

2009-11-28T18:46:00.018+01:00

Two weeks ago, Chase Emery, my 13 years old son, was the lead in a short "Coming of Age "film about a mother and son moving to Paris from Oregon. The son, played by my son, does not adjust well. He meets a girl who he really likes with all the joys and upsets that come with first love. The film's plot moves towards the "First Kiss". Interestingly, this film is not so far removed from Chase's experience except he came from Santa Fe, NM.

For the first week of shooting, Chase was shuttled between school and Beaubourg to a small apartment across from the Pompidou Center, which was barely large enough for the 20 strong crew and their food.

All this had been carefully coordinated to miss the least amount of "real classes" as possible. In France that means French and Maths.

Saturday morning arrived and it's was pouring buckets. There was no "sleeping in" for the wicked and in the black of the morning Chase and I headed out to rue de l' Abbaye in St Germain des Pres and arrived by 7:30am. Most of the crew were already setting up the first shot as well as pots of tea and caffeine.

Within 30 minutes, Chase was made up and rolling the first scene with a simple shot of him waiting for the girl he fancies, outside the Catholic school just down the street from the Dior store on the corner.

Scene 2 required Chase to ride through the picturesque little streets around Place von Fursternberg on a "gold bike". Yes I said gold. The movie could have been about the bike, it caused so much discussion!

The First rule of managing an outside set is - make sure your actors are warm. Second rule - feed the crew. Rule three - see rule 1 and 2. So Chase has an entourage of young pretty girls running after him rubbing his hands whilest trying to put his hat, coat, and scalf on him to keep warm.

The sun started to shine through dark silver lined clouds, reflecting on the stone facades creating an interesting light.

At about this time a young girl named, Rachel, playing opposite Chase arrived for her scene.

The sun was now fully out and it was midday. Time to warm up and walk over to a small cafe across from Paul's on rue Buci for a Hot Chocolate. As I stood at the bar in direct sunlight doing the "Cafe" thing, I remembered my first school trip to Paris at age 11 and dreaming of the Paris I had seen in the movies. I am watching Chase live this dream and making a film about it. I'm thinking about the concept "Does something that is observed change just because it is being observed" and wondering if making a movie about the 'Coming of Age' changes how that person actually does 'Come of Age'. A sort of TV age version of a Rite of Passage.

It was time to leave the kid to grow up. I passed the church and the famous cafes lined with bobo intellectuals vigourously discussing the important issues of the day. I wonder if coping with adolecent youths was one of the?

Mixed Pleasures in the 20th Arrondissement

2009-11-23T16:07:00.024+01:00

Paris is certainly a city where you can keep discovering new and interesting places. The 20th arrondissement in the north-east corner of the city is no exception. So this weekend I went back in Menilmontant in my continual search for that seeimingly unattainable "Old Paris" feeling. It was only few weeks ago that I had ventured here and got side tracked ending up in a cafe in Belleville. I was determined to finish the original route so I call my friend Marc, a photographer who occassionally leads tours in Paris, and asked if he wanted to go on a very adventutous photo of this little known quarter. How could he refuse?

Our first stop was a street named Villa L'Ermitage - a name, which conjours up images of a flowering seaside villa on the French Riviera - and you would be pretty close if you though that. The street is flowering and colorful, full of graffitied walls with unusual little houses filled with artists, squaters, bars, and in one house had bunches of well formed sweet red grapes hanging on the walls.

What's visually interesting is the unexpected mix of odd proportioned houses and old buildings, which have been re-surfaced with flat dull stone-like finish but within these facade are some lovely architectural details.

At the end of the street you are greeted by another odd structure, an entry into city's sewer system. And for those fascinated by this, you can actually visit the Musee des Egouts (Museum of Sewers). I hear it is quite interesting.

So this is the good news. From here on its gets a little depressing with more modern non- descript buildings, housing estates, and the feeling that you should not be there. We did have a minor incident with some unpleasant youths, who were afraid I had caught them on film, hum... and I could tell Mark was definately not a happy camper as he kept his eyes peeled on a broken-off broom handle stuck in the belt pants of the oldest Yobo.

Anyway, with a cool head and determination not to be intimidated, we were released after one of the younger boys,, who clearly wanted to improve his knowledge of photography asked me to show him the photos I had taken. I was happy to oblige and hope the experience was as enriching for him as it was culturally fullfilling for me!

It was time to head toward the 19th and safer pastures. And, here we stopped at a friendly cafe set between rows upon rows of little town houses with tree lined alleys between them. On Villa Claude Monet was the cutest house with Alice in Wonderland illustrations painted on the facade.

Unfortunatley, not everyone living on this street is looking at Wonderland .

Giverny to Rouen

2009-11-13T18:07:00.014+01:00

I was fortunate 2 weeks ago to visit Monet's home in Giverny. The sun was out so fall colors could not have been more spectacular. Many visitors do not have to to visit the small and newly renamd Museum of Impressionism which is a shame as they do create interesting exhbitis and now that theu have changed their name an are partners with the Musee d'Orsay they have expanded their focus. Giverny is not a place you want to spend a full day. 2 to 3 hours is sufficient and then lunch. What do you do in the afternoon?

Well if you like impressionist paintining you should head up to Rouen, not more than 45 minutes away.

Rouen is home to a Musee de Beaux Arts which holds a unique collection of Impressionist paintings, which by charter it is not allowed to lend out so you have to see it there or not at all.

Also a collection of beautifull Delacroix paintings and other works from the Belle Epoque. So highly recommended.

Nearby, is also an absolutely fascinating musems of iron objects, the Musée le Secq des Tournelles which has a very large collection of locks and signs. Also, highy recommended and a good visit just to break up all that color overload.

And of course you have to visit the cathedral, which Monet painted over and over again at different times of the day. If you are staying over night during the summer there is a fantastic light show, which is projected on to the facade of the Cathedral. Add music and you have a unique impressionistic experience.

David Lebovitz & Friends Talk About Sweet Paris

2009-10-31T11:39:00.014+01:00

Wednesday evening after a day spent in Giverny and Rouen I rushed back to the American Library in Paris to hear three food writers talk about the sweeter aspects of life in France. David Lebovitz, Alexander Lobrano and Dorie Greenspan.

Unfortunately, I missed Dorie's talk and walked into the middle of Alexander's recounting of some of his most memorable desserts. I have read many of his reviews and find them to be excellent. I often look at his blog to see where he's been recently. I always have the sense he is giving us the real story. Not the guide book rubbish so I highly recommend giving him a read.

He was followed by David Lebovitz who most French chocolate fans know already so no need to say much other than he comes across as very likeable and and awkwardly funny in a rather endering way ( You can buy his book here). I have read a number of his twitters and they are always wuite humerous. He also said that readers often write to him and ask him for Macaron recipes. His answer is basically you can't make them in the US like you can here. You just have to come to Paris to eat them or make them. I agree. Its a sort of metaphysical thing.

Japanese Chocolate Makers in Paris

2009-10-27T08:22:00.019+01:00

This was my first visit to the Salon at the Porte de Versailles. Each year it is advertised heavily all over Paris and having resisted the urge in previous years, finally broke down and went to see what all the fuss was about.

As one enters the Salon du Chocolate, you are overwhelmed by the crowds and huge stands built by commerical makers like Nestle, Cote d'Or, de Neuville and the ever so strange color coded booth of the chain Jeff de Bruges, which you can find in malls and market streets all over France.

There was a long line outside the Magnum ice cream stand blocking the way, as they were giving away free mini vanilla ice creams coated with chocolate. Very commercial but good for the kids. 'Big Kids' that is. The 'Little Kids' didn't stand a chance.

As you wade through the first level of chaos you literllay fall into a circular central area (I mean arena) where demonstrations, catwalks and other 'Gladiatorial' spectacles take place. It was jammed with on lookers hoping to get a free piece of "cake", and they did. Got to feed the mob because you know what happened last time!

Moving forward one starts to find some of the more interesting and innovative chocolate makers like Pierre Marcolini.

Close by was Bonnat, one of my personal favorites, who makes chocolate bar / tablets using cocoa beans from around the world. I approach eating their chocolate as if I was doing a wine tasting, evaluating and comparing taste, aromas, aftertaste, texture and so on. Theses are available in the US by the way.

One aspect of this show is too highlight creativity in design. There was JP Hevin with his colored balloons and high heel shoe that really did look like the texture of brown leather. He is known for his Chocolate Pret a Porter.

Jacques Bellanger, President of the World Chocolate Masters displayed an interesting chocolate 'Green Man' mask? Hmm...

At the very back of the room was a chocolate dessert demonstration, which I found very hard to see
and it was in being given in French. That was the sign to leave.

After 2 hours and a few yummy tastings, I decided it was time to head out and find something salty to eat. And I did. It was a very delicious salted caramel chocolate from Sadaharu Aoki, one of two Japanese chocolate makers at the show. The presentation looked more like the cosmetic counter at Shiseido than a chocolate store, but of course you might expect that.

As I left, I noticed a section dedicated to children. I'm guess it was there to help get them addicted early on.

I wonder if the stand was sponsered by the Dental Association of France! What do you think?

The Greatest Temple of Macarons in Paris

2009-10-17T17:56:00.017+02:00

Of course, living in Paris has it's temptations. It is impossible to resist the fragrant, colorful, and luscious macaroons. I have to use the word luscious because when you bite into that ultra thin crust and break through to the soft fluffy, squishly, brighlty,and colorful combination of egg whites and cream you can not help but think of Marie Antoinette dressed in magnificent pastel silks, eating macaroons with champagne. The Royal French antidote to low blood sugar. Today I tested out the route for our new tour to visit some of the current bastions of Macaron Greatness in a vintage Citroën 2CV. I was floored when arrived at the new Laduree in the 8th arrondissement.

You walk into a low-lit 19th century tea room decorated with Belle Epoque scultures holding wooden shelves, with stacks of pale colored 18th century style packageing. On the right people are seated at tables eating breakfast and directly in front of me was a very long line of people waiting to be served their take-out desserts. Dressed in black, with white gloves and looking like they are staring in the Phantom of the Opera, was a red lipped sales girl handeling a pale pink crusty heart shaped Macaron with blood red raspberries pressed into the cream with the utmost artistry. They are handled with such dexterity and care you could imagine they were Burma rubies in a luxury jewelers on Place Vendome.

As you slowly pass by the line of greedy-eyed customers, forced to wait for their 60 seconds of satisfaction, you start to perceive an otherworldly glow from the end of the room, which draws you closer and closer. The noise from the waiters moving around the room, and the hustle and bustle of continual entering and exiting of the salon, starts to fade as you are enveloped by a quiet neon glow and you experienc a sensation of floating.

You penetrate an invisible barriers that separates the 19th century from the future. Time stops and all you can think about is a 2001 Space Odyssey. A French sales girl answers a question about lunch in a cold and deliberate manner. She reminds me of one of those humanoid robots in Blade Runner who is deceptively beautiful, but if you don't watch your manners she will incinerate you with her Ray Gun without even a flicker of her Chanel mascara.

If Art Nouveau was re created in the future from a few design concepts this is what it would look like. I am really impressed. I have seen photos of the new interiors but being there was tastier.

Wine Tours in Paris - When You're Good, You're Good

2009-10-17T15:31:00.011+02:00

Last Thursday we did our 69 euro Left Bank Wine Promenade, where clients get to spend 3 hours tasting wine in local Latin Quarter wine bars with our wine expert, the charming Charlotte. It is one of the most popular tours we offer and I sometimes go on it myself when we have corporate groups. It is always great fun!

I was surprised to hear that Antoinette Azzurro a person who offers expensive private tours (so I have read) through her site Paris Personalized had booked the tour for herself and a friend through one of our authorized online re-sellers at City Discovery.

Charlotte phoned me after the tour and was quite upset because Azzurro had copied every word and even asked many times to repeat things so as to not miss anything at all. She said she was going to take our Right Bank Wine Tour as she had enjoyed it so much. Charlotte was not amused! In fact, she was quite miffed that Azzurro tried to steal her original anecdotes and script in such a dishonest way which she has worked hard over years to develop. And, on top of that use the content in her own tours at 5 times the price.

I can understand how Charlotte feels, but at the same time I felt a certain satisfaction that Manstouch clearly provides exceptional service and experiences for its clients at such reasonable prices.

Well. That's the Truth About Paris. You gotta roll with the punches.

In Search of The Red Balloon

2009-10-11T11:13:00.015+02:00

The Red Balloon is the 1956 short and magical movie about the adventures of a young boy and his balloon which follows him as he moves through his local neighborhood of Paris. I saw the film at a very young age and it was probably my earliest visual experience of Paris. I rediscovered the movie after I moved to Paris and had thought that it had been filmed in Montmartre but after checking I discovered it was filmed in Menilmotant.

Last Sunday a friend and I decided to get on our bikes in search of Old Paris. Off we went from the 7th . Past the Muses d'Orsay, the Louvre, Bastille and north past the cemetary of Pere Lachaise. Finally we arrive at rue Menilmontant, where one can still get a glimpse of the old streets and buildings. now many of the apartment buildings sit on top shop fronts selling Middle Eastern food and clothing or telephone stores offering low cost calls ot Lagos or Marrakech. We arrive at a cute cobbled stone street. Views like this are disappearing.

It's a little quite even for a Sunday. Where is everyone? Somehow we went off course heading north not east and ended up in Belleville, where thousands of people had gathered for a huge street market with hundreds of stalls filled with locals and their throw aways trying to introduce them back into the value chain and squeeze out a few sous.

As we walked through the streets amazed by the morass of people, clothes and stuff we came across a welcomed relief - Villa de'L Ardour - a gated community of the most charming private homes.

There are quite a few of these around Paris and occassionaly you can get in without the access code. We could have been on a small island off the coast of Brittany.

I never did find my red balloon. I'll have to go back - some day.

Paris Patrimoine and Napoleon's Legacy

2009-09-20T14:13:00.015+02:00

From time to time, the windows of my apartment start to vibrate. It's usually a sign that a helicopter is landing at the Ecole Miltaire with President Sarkozy or some other important military Brass. (military school)
This weekend is European Patrimoine or Heritage weekend when buildings normally closed to the public are opened to satisfy everyones endlessly curiousity about what goes on inside them and to just see how they imagine the "other half " live.

I thought it a good idea to visit the Ecole Militaire and Riding School since I live right across the street. It was here that Napoleon Bonaparte graduated in 1785. The weather was perfect and a welcomed change after a few days of the most depressing grey "Northern English" type weather. I wanted and see for myself what was going on behind the stables. Yes they keep horses too for officers and their families.

The buildings themselves are a little disappointing architecturally, eventhough I managed to take a few interesting photographs. This is clearly an "all working and no play" place during the day. The evenings are sometimes given over to "coming out" type parties for well-connected, clean-looking teenagers with wind blown hairstyles left over from their vacations in La Boule and Dinard.

One of the highlights is the Saint Louis Chapel where at 3pm today there will be a concert but I'm off the Jacquemart Andre museum for tea. Another interesting visit is the military library, which houses original leather bound books from the 18th century including 3 volumes from Napoleon's expedition to Egypt
.

What was really fascinating was actually across the street, In the front of the Champs de Mars, an area once used for military drills, Marchemondiale,crowds of people were demonstrating for peace and non violence.

There were cool African bands and dancers dressed in vibrant red.

A strange turning of the tides. I wonder what Napoleon would have thought of this band marching outside his window.

A Woodstock Brunch by the Paris Canals

2009-09-12T09:43:00.020+02:00

It was Sunday. The sun was shining as it does at the end of the summer. A gentle autumn breeze felt invigorating and I decided to follow up a blog I recently read, which featured a 6 euro weekend Brunch inside a "Brocante" on the banks of Canal St Martin in the 10th arrondissement. (What's a Brocante you ask? A gathering of locals and dealers who sell anything from old clothes to vintage stereos that don't work and even antiques) . Sounds interesting - No? The Canal was littered with locals taking in the rays and sipping wine at places like the trendy Chez Prune.

The sound of clinking glass floated over the canal competing with the buzz of cameras shutters from the passing tourist boat as it glided silently on its way to the next loch.

Le Comptoir General advertised "BROC Dej" (Brocante Dejeuner). Its not a gathering of ex-Maharishi followers who just arrived in from Pondicherry selling certificates for "boundless possibilities" a new age knock off of "Indulgences" to pay for a store/resto expansion. There was a sign on the outside pointing to a building at the back of an alley. I'm already getting that Woodstock feeling. Yes! I used to live nearby in Germantown. A young woman was sitting on a door step eating. Clearly she worked there on a break eyeing the inquisitive newbies as they move hesitatingly toward the dark entrance. Crossing the threshold one finds oneself in a long line of Bohemian dressed locals with vegan complexions and that "oh so down to earth attitude" hoping not to miss the best food bargain in Paris. Is that California Dreamin I hear?

It was true! 6 euro for bread and jam plus unlimited hot drinks and juice. It was about 2 o' clock and the industrial size jam jars in the center of the tables looked like they had been given a good going over. Kids were strewn all over the place and in the back of the room there was Creche where they could be dumped with their sticky raspberry and blackcurrant hands joining multicolored building blocks in miraculous ways.

A second room at the back had tables with leftovers, clothes, organic honey and other paraphernalia.

This is more than a restaurant. It is a true "third place" for bleary eyed locals to roll out of bed and into a bath of endless coffee. If you want a community experience and on a budget this is a great place to come. If you prefer your jam in you own jam jar then probably it is not so just walk next door for a drink at Hotel du Nord, a place well know to forein film enthusiasts.

or for something more invigorating rent a Velib bike and coast down the road to the Bastille.

The End of a Paris Summer on the Left Bank

2009-08-29T22:58:00.018+02:00

Its the end of a quiet summer in Paris. Here are visitors enjoy an early lunch in the Latin Quarter and are spotted by the locacl accordionist to help them get into the Left Bank Street mood given that the streets are pretty empty. August is very quiet in the city. The French take their vacations very seriously. For locals we are enjoying a breath of silence and calm. But for unsuspecting tourists they can't find where to eat. So many of the restaurants and shops are closed.

I was on my way to have lunch with one of my photographers and it was at one mynew favorite restaurants in Paris so I brought my camera. I'm always on my own photography tour. Not far away from the restaurant is the Museum of Cluny - the National Museum of the Middle ages, built in 1334 and constructed on 3rd century Roman ruins.

The Hotel Cluny was home to Mary Tudor,King Francis 1 and Mazzarin. I did not have time to go in so I wandered though entering the gardens through a small entrance on Place Painleve, which I had not really paid much attention to. First time there actually.

As it's the end of August, everyone is preparing for the kids to go back to school. As they say here "Le Rentre" and yes its like a but of a horror show trying to get your kids "stuff" at the shops before they are all sold out or you are crushed to death by last minute "moms". A bit like going to a football match. The garden infront of the medieval building was tranquil and "insolite". There were students having picnics and probably thinking about starting classes next week.

Well perhaps not all of them.

Exiting the garden on to Boulevard Saint Germain , I walked across Boulevard Saint Michel and past Gilbert Jeune, which is the "The " place to buy school text books and supplies. And it's not so far from Shakespeare and Co, a must for all visitors.

Turning right on rue de l'Ecole de Medicine and following the route of the 87 bus, which I always find hard to believe it can get through the narrow gap between 2 formidable buildings that leaves the driver about an inch on both sides. I always wonder if "this time will the driver get stuck" after passing the Surgical Amphitheatre on the left built by the medieval brotherhood of Surgeons in the 17th century after a successful surgeryof Louis XIV. and on the right the fabulous tiny tea shop called La Patisserie Viennoise specializing in Viennoiserie like Apple Strudle. Closed unfortunately for the summer grrrr. . .

So far so good. I end my walk a little further along where Grafitti meets Old Paris.

How do they get up there anyway?

Looking Beyond Paris for Chocolate and Coffee

2009-08-22T11:10:00.021+02:00

Five and a half hours by TGV from Paris and I was in Turin, which as you know was the first capital of the Unified Italy and prior to that the capital of Kingdom of Savoy after the familly moved out of France in the 11th century. More importantly, Turin was historically the capital city of chocolate. It could have been this fact alone which caused the city to be unde siege from the French in 1640 and in 1800, Napoleon Bonaparte annexed the city to France. There is a strong French influence here and many locals speak French as a 2nd language.

The city's iconic landmak is the Mole Antonelliana - a bizarre looking building originally built as a synagogue and now a rather fantastic Masonic looking temple to Cinema.

I had been expecting an industrial city with all the signs of the automobile industry. But this was not to be the case. Turin or Torino, is a beautifull Baroque city with traces of Musolini-era Rationalist Architecture spread through the 12 miles of covered arcades which protect one from the heat of the summer and rain of the winter. This makes it a great a city to stroll through or as they say in Paris "Flanner". Cafes are situated on every corner and the Torinese spend hours dropping into their favorite cafe for a "pause" while the kids eat their Sicilian Slushies.

On our first visit to a little cafe on Via Po, I ordered the famous tri-layered Bicerin, a magical concoction of chocolate, coffee and latte, which was remarked by Alexander Dumas, author of the Three Muskateers, after his visit to Turin in 1852 as one of the most memorable experiences of his trip. However, this little coffee shop did not serve it. 2 locals at the bar explained "not in summer" but I could order a Marocchino" a similar drink made with coffee, milk and chocolate paste. I said "sure let's try it" . Absolutely delicious. The man and woman we had briefly chatted with left and said the coffees were " on them". What a welcome! Can you imagine that in Paris?

It seemed a worthy search to try and find the quintessential Marocchino and Bicerin over the next 2 days. There are still many many great historical cafes to enjoy like Caffe Barrati & Milano or Pepino. Couldn't try them all of course, so with a few inquiries we found out that in fact Al Bicerin was the place to go. So we did. It's a small cafe run by a couple of unremarkable women who just do what they do besetwithout any fuss - make the original Bicerin. Not too bitter, not too sweet. Just right!

And where to find the best Marocchino you may ask. Using the best ingrediants is important, so we headed off in search of Peyrano Pfatisch, one of the oldest Chocolate producers in Turin. I can't imagine this drink made any better and part of the experience is watching it made layer by layer.Chocolate paste, coffee, a sprinkle of chocolate, more coffee, more paste on the side of the glass and so on and so forth on until the foam from the steamed milk is carefully poured on top.

On the subject of Chocolate, I have to tell you about Gobino, one of the most famous artisanal chocolate makers in Turin. My favorites here were the mini pralines, cubes of chocolate laced with various flavors. The most memorable are the Martini Vermouth, Barolo Wine and Vanilla Bourbon which tickle the taste buds with an intense flavor but end with a smooth and subtle aftertaste.

Turin chocolate firms produce awell known and typical Piedmeonte chocolate, called Gianduiotto, named after Gianduja, a local Commedia dell'arte mask; plus many other kinds of chocolate.

Every year the town organizes CioccolatO, a two-week chocolate festival run with the main Piedmontese chocolate producers, such as Caffarel, Streglio and Venchi.

Want to go?

Paris Hotel Reviews That Make Me Laugh

2009-08-15T20:36:00.015+02:00

I've been thinking about how to restructure my hotel offer on Manstouch. I finally decided to start with hotels in Saint Germain des Pres in the 6th arrondissement. Its an areas I enjoyed staying in before I moved to Paris and now that I live here I still like it and it is not far from home.

So, I have been studying hundereds of reviews by visitors who have stayed in the 6th and they make me chuckle. There are 3 reoccuring complaints which seem contrary to the reason why people wanted to stay in Saint Germain in the first place. In other words the negatives should be positives.

1. "The room was tiny" Saint Germain is one of the oldest parts of the city. That means that many of the boutique hotels are situated in buildings that are up to 400 years old so of course the rooms are small. Why do visitors list this as a negative. If you want big rooms you go to Florida.

2. The night staff is "rude and unhelpfull" is another frequent complaint. Of course they are, They're tired! During the day they are sweet Parisians. Don't you get cranky late at night? No! Have I got a job for you!

3. Another of my favorites is "Breakfast seemed a little overpriced". Of course it is. 18 Euros for a croissant, jam and a cup of tea. But you are not paying for the food. You are paying for the luxury of eating in a 17th century building and someone has to pay the rent. But you are not a prisoner. Hop on down the road and have breakfast at one of the cafes, bars, or bakeries like Les Deux Magots. This is much more fun and a lot less expensive.

To be fair and joking aside for a minute - the hotels do charge a lot of money for very small rooms and it does surprise me that the hoteliers can't seem to get the small details right. Bathrooms without hooks for towels, or shower curtains to stop the water soaking the floor. there are not enough electrical outlets, and the wifi does not always work. There is no coffee maker in the room. Not providing decent breakfast, if you are going to charge an arm and a leg, this is not rocket science, and people do complain. Even Oscar Wilde would not have stood for it and he didn't even pay his last hotel bill.

They could learn a few lessons from the hoteliers in Catalonia. I'm off there in September for a few days to discover where Napoleon waged his campaigns, and put together an interesting 3 day package.

Paris Lingerie

2009-08-08T17:47:00.024+02:00

Image from Underdressed, by Elodie Piveteau
Photography of The late 1900's

Paris is a city synonymous with luxury, sensuality and risque lingerie. Inspired by a recent spate of articles about made to order lingerie in Paris, I thought we could explore this subject through the lens of history, culture and the arts.

Poster by Jules Cheret

The Moulin Rouge at night

The infamous risqué French dance the Cancan debuted in 1830. Its name is derived from the word for Scandal and it shocked the world with bosoms and frilly under things, that will forever be associated with Paris. All of this vivacity was captured by the artists of the day such as Toulouse Lautrec, Jules Cheret, Degas.

Poster by Toulouse Lautrec 1893

With dance movements described ,below glimpses were assured!

Oh la la!

The characteristic movements in the Cancan include:

1) "Circling the Legs" (lifting one leg and rotating only the lower half, thus forcing the derriere to wobble)

2) The "Pigeon Wing " (bringing the bust into play by leaping forward, kicking high and throwing the shoulders back while "carrying on the arm" (holding one leg up against the cheek while hopping lightly on the other leg).

3) The grand finale (was the splits, generally done from a running start with a yell to the audience).

La Vie Parisienne.1922
A Masterpiece! It's not even listed in the catalog.

From the mid-nineteenth century an entire entertainment and publishing industry grew up in France, identified with the risqué and erotic. It started with the Cancan. Beautifully illustrated erotic books in lavish bindings or boxes. Nude and semi nude photography printed as post cards, “French postcards”.

The famouse French Music halls with their exotic shows , and the lives of the infamous courtesans. Paris had flirty little journals like “La Vie Parisienne“ where lingerie was the undercurrent of the articles and illustrations where readers clamored just for the chance of a peek. La Vie Parisienne was one of the more famous and well-known of the Parisian magazines. Others included playbills specifically focused on the French Music Halls. "La Vie Parisian" was started in the 19th century, and originally intended as a guide to the privileged social and artistic life in the French capital, but soon evolved into a mildly risqué publication with illustrations of scantily clad women. It was all done in very good taste with illustrators like Charles Martin, Georges Barbier, Gerda Wegener, and Vallee.

La Vie Parisienne. 1917
The decorations necessary for new years eve.

La Vie Parisienne. 1919 by Georges Barbier

In the famous words of Cole Porter’s Anything Goes

In olden days a glimpse of stocking
Was looked on as something shocking,
But now, God knows,
Anything Goes

The French have been fascinated by Lingerie and particularly garters for hundreds of years.

French postcards

In the past, lingerie was for molding the silhouette as with the corsets to provide support with foundation garments. Before the age of ready to wear, lingerie was made to measure by a corsetiere. The word lingerie comes from linge de corps. Beautiful lingerie embellished with ribbons, and lace on silk lingerie is sensuous and evocative.

Edouard Manet’s Nana 1877 . She is partially dressed with the gentleman watching.

Danish born artist Gerda Wegener worked in Paris

Guest Contributor: Debra Healy

References
Underdressed , Elodie Piveteau fitway publishing,2005

blog post http://www.parisbao.com/category/lingerie/

And http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/08/09/travel/09foraging.html?src=twt&twt=nytimesstyle

Ile aux Moins - Paradise in Brittany

2009-08-01T21:02:00.025+02:00

Tranquility, oysters, and graduates of Polytechnique, the elite French engineering school, are all to be found among the "Bloomin" summer flowers of Ile Aux Moins, a small Brittany island in the Golfe du Morbihan.

It took only 3 hours from Gare Montparnasse via Rennes to the railway station in Vannes and 20 minutes to got to Port Breton and 5 minutes boat ride to the isalnd to begin our annual stay on the island with our friends Sandy and Gil, a Polytechniquenician, who grew up in Westport, CT and sailed in the Davis Cup Race.

The island is lovely, but I'm afraid it feels like members only eventhough anyone can take the 1euro ferry accross. Hundreds of day trippers arrive throughout the summer but secretly get frowned upon for disturbing the peace of this hallowed countryside. So if you don't have a friend on the island at least stay in one of the hotels for a night or 2.

Fortunatley, we are part of the "in group" and not only that we were invited to join the nightly reading of Othello with the "Shakespeare Irregulars" a group of overbright, anglofiles who read Shakepeare plays and are directed by a visiting English professor from San Francisico.

The typical day looks like this. Breakfast, walk to the village for coffee or hot chocolate, back home for lunch, reading or sailing for a couple of hours before cocktails and dinner. And if you do the reading option, tea and Kouign-aman, a Bretagne cake made up of a swirls of flakey pastry covering a soft croissant-like inside and held together with burnt sugar. It's delicious and takes no more than 10 minutes to get the bits out of your teeth. Add vanilla ice cream and voila. Thank God our hostess is such a great cook with all that food everyday.

The weekend was overcast most of the time and very windy but that's Brittany. Remind's me of England so I felt quite at home. Chase didn't care and began to get everypiece of clothing and shoes soaked thru with of course the addition of wet sand, so he just lived in a wet suit and waited to go swimming and sailing at the earliest opportunity each day.

Life got even wetter when Chase decided to take a bath and did not realize that the water was overflowing which nearly flooded the house. Luckily it was caught just in the nick of time. 4 nervous breakdowns and double drinks later and we got through the last night without incident.
When it was time to say goodbye, everyone was relieved.

Until next year!

Auction Madness in Paris

2009-07-03T14:42:00.017+02:00

I was at Drouot only yesterday to preview the auction of Elsa Schiaparelli one of the most creative haute couture designers of the 20th century. On the way out of the aution room I bumped into a new American expat friend and recently retired as a Antiquarian book dealer and his wife is a specialist in antique lace. We spent a few minutes discussing the unfortunate economic and environmental situation in America, our very high regard for President Obama, and our disappointment that "the opposition" to real change is so entrenched that even Obama might not be able to overcome them. It's like a Shakespearean Tragedy and you know what happens at the end of all of them - no winners.

Going to auction is one of my favorite things to do in Paris. Its fun and totally crazy. Everyday there are auction previews for 1 hour when dealers from all over Paris stream through the three floors of auction rooms each run by a different company, picking up and inspecting the wares on display and hoping they have found something that everyone else has missed. And of course, sometimes they do.

After lunch the Auctions starts and its like being at the races. Room upon room of people screaming at each other. It's not like a Sothebys auction where everything is all very proper. Here its a free for all especially in the basement. The auction often start with large crates of porcelaine, books, paper memorobilia and the like that is part of an estate sale and has to go at any price.As each crate comes out the dealers swarm like vultures over the objects touching, smelling, rubbing and God knows what else. I have seen the price start at 10euro and drop ot 50cents just for someone to take it away. The acutions last 2-3 hours.

Around Drouot there are numerous dealers and 19th century covered passages which I love going through.

They are full of the most unusal shops, Grevin wax works museum, print dealers and there is even Hotel Chopin.

One of my favorite shops is a dealer in antique walking canes.

And it is next to a typically Parisian tea salon where the menus are only in French and you can not read the check

L'addition s'il vous plait!

Art of the Bath at the Renaissance Chateau Ecouen

2009-06-30T12:30:00.010+02:00

30 minutes outside Paris is the Musée National de la Renaissance in Ecouen. It is sourrounded by lovely countryside and a cool green forest. There is currently an exhibtion about the bath. A hundred and thirty objects and art works have been assembled by the Museum with the aim of showing theaesthetic and social dimension of the Renaissance toilet routine.

It is quite a lovely exhibit with very fine and refined objects, jewelry, paintings, books and gravures illustrating the art of the bath both private and public.

But that's not all. The chateau is an unexpected surprise. Its a jewel waiting to be discovered . As you walk in, you enter a charming light drenched church with a lovely ceiling and illustrated Organ.

As you move to the next room you find a painted fireplace which is suprisingly in good condition and there are quite a number of the throughout the castle.

Tapestries, Porcelaines, Weapons and other objects from the 16th cetury are on display. What I thought would be a 1 hour visit turned into a 4 hour visit including tea in the garden and a picnic.
Definately worth a visit. Ill be writing another blog on Renaissance Paris.

From Paris to Prague

2009-06-24T14:37:00.021+02:00

I'm always fascinated that whenever I travel through Europe how so many places were built molded or influenced by Romans or the French and in particular Napoleon. Its amazing how many places he got around to without a jet. This weekend I took a short 90 minutes flight trip to Prague with the Czech Tourist Board. The purpose was to do 3 days of hotel inspections and visit interesting venues for corporate meetings or incentives. Our hotel was the new 5 star Augustine, created from seven buildings including the 13th century Augustinian St. Thomas’s Monastery, which is attatched to the hotel and where there are several practicing monks living there and a library of 35,000 books some going back hundreds of years.

The decor is inspired by 1930’s Czech cubism, many of which are reproductions from Czech design specialist Modernista, including timber chairs by Pavel Janak and chaise-lounges by Adolf Loos who as all yousophisticates know lived in Paris between 1922 and 1927 and built The Tzara House in Paris on rue Junot which you can visit if you take one of our Montmartre Walking Tours. The hotel is positioned near Prague Castle, the Wallenstein Garden, and the famous Charles Bridge and houses the cellar of the former St. Thomas’s brewery features stalactites and stalagmites that date back to the seventeenth century. The original beer formula is being made again for the now trendy downstairs pub and is delicious.

So where were the French influences in Prague?

The following morning it was time was time for a visit of the old city and more hotels and guess what. The first hotel was the latest Paris import. The Buddah Bar Hotel. Dark, black, red, Chinese dragons and of course the huge Buddah in the middle of the restaurant.

And the room highlight was the 8,000 euro japanese toilet which does everything except make cocktails.

Enough, modernity and off we go towent for an appointment at Hotel Paris a turn of the century Hotel with art Nouveau moldings, original posters and a wedding party of Brits. What are they doing here?

It started to rain so even though it was quite warm out I could not resist the temptation of a hot chocolate. Not the Prague is know for its Chocolate but in Cafe de Paris that was the order of the day. Delicious and not too sweet.

Saturday night and a visit to the Opera to see La Traviata and the story opens with Violetta welcoming her party guests into her Paris apartment. A lovely production which ends on the upbeat line "Oh what happiness" as Violetta dies of TB.

We ended the evening at the lovely French restaurant Bellevue, where even our waiter spoke French and the view was beautifull. What happened to good old fashioned Czech cuisine? I don't know but now they they are out of the Communist Closet the locals aren't much intersted in Grandma's cooking and French chic is in.

Shakespeare in the Bois de Boulogne

2009-06-21T22:25:00.012+02:00

Sunday afternoon in Paris. It was raining. We had been invited to a picnic followed by Hamlet in the Bois de Boulogne, by Rosabelle Tarnowska - Polish stock, which emmigrated to Canada when having a title was not PC. Rosabelle teaches cooking in Paris when she is not jet setting around the globe. I decided after a number of years of being asked to finally breakdown and go to see Shakespeare in the Park. However, the day finally arrived and the idea of standing in the rain and freezing to death reminded me too much of my public school days in England, when we were sent out half naked to play rugby in the sleet and rain. "Come on Davis, tackle the boy for God's sake" the teacher would scream as I would run after my opponent trying to figure out how I could stop him with the desired "low tackle" which would cause him to trip and fall but without getting his boots in my face.

I emailed the Countess and made my case with profuse apologies and thought that all the other guests would probably do the same until I got a call from an English friend of her's who feeling sorry for Rosabelle having tried to get 30 people in one place at one time offered to host the picnic at her house. I agreed and asked if she intended to see the play to which she declared, "Absolutely, aren't you". "No" I said. "I graduated from school enough times that I can make my own choice now and getting soaked ain't one of them." She remarked that as an English woman, she had to show the French that the English were not scared of a little rain and she intended to go out there and let her... wave in the wind. So off we went to lunch.

It was lovely lunch of cold meats cheese Sangria and more Sangria and at about 3pm, the rain had subsided and I said OK let's chance it and off we went to the Bois de Boulogne.

Each year the Tower Theater Company comes over from London to perform in the Bois de Boulogne. This Sunday it was Hamlet.

The rain had kept most people out the park so it was peacefull and sirene. The voices of the actors and setting was so calming that I was lulled into a lovely afternoon sleep but woke in time for some of the great lines.

Should you want to know more about the next performance go to www.thetheatre.org.uk.

Cocktail Class, Dinner & Live Music near the Bastille

2009-06-07T12:53:00.025+02:00

Friday evening I was invited to the Reservoir for a Cocktail Making Class and dinner. I arrived about 7:30pm and met my 3 classmates at the bar. They were locals and 2 of them spoke excellent English - not so uncommon anymore in Paris. The Reservoir has been one of the most popular evening destinations in Paris for a number of years. Here you can eat, drink and listen to live music. Each week the bands change and the music ranges from jazz, funk, soul, rock and contemporary French songs. An added attraction is the barman making cocktails.

So we started our mixology class with a French Cosmopolitan, a trendy drink shown in the series “Sex and the City”. This evening we did not make the classic version with an orange liqueur but substituted it with French Vanilla. The most important thing to start with is the best and freshest ingredients and the right tools of course.

The recipe called for vodka so we used Grey Goose, a luxury French Vodka made from winter wheat south of Paris and blended with naturally filtered through Champagne limestone in the Cognac region of Western France and distilled using traditional French methods. The flavoring was bottlews by the French brand Monin, created in Bourges in 1912.

Our second drink was the number one cocktail in the world, the Mojito, and tonight we were going to make it with a fresh mint and raspberries. Very delicious. The last cocktail was a Mango Caipirovska, which is inspired by the Caipirinha, where the Vodka is replaced by Baccardi. Et voila! a very refreshing summer drink. A few additional drinks flower on by before Francois, our Mixology Meistro gave us a short Flare show.

At this point I was a "bit done in" but dinner was on the menu. I started with a shrimp tortilla in a double chocolate sauce followed by salmon sushi and to finish (me off) a fresh fruit chocolate fondue.

During dinner the owner Mary de Vivo came over and introduced herself. Mary was once an actress and retired to run the Reservoir and has gained a reputation of showcasing up and coming talent. She has created a major musical competition, called Generation Reservoir with prize money of 100,000 euro where new artists get a chance to be heard in an even larger venue.

At about midnight the band came on and played the first set. More customers came in to drink and listen to the music. This evening it was Knifejack -- I think? Never heard of it before but was told it originated in Miami.

I left about an hour later having thoroughly enjoyed the evening. It was loads of fun and I highly recommend going but not alone. Take a friend or two. If you want to take the cocktail class as well send me an email. It's 99euro pp with 3 course dinner and music. And of course you get to drink the cocktails you make!

Paris Fashion Trends During the Occupation

2009-06-03T16:05:00.015+02:00

Hats made from Celluloid Ribbon and navy blue Taffetas

Today we went to see an exhibition focusing on accessories and fashion trends in France under German/Nazi Occupation. It was both fascinating and deeply disturbing. Having read the bland report in WWD and the fashion report in the guardian I am left a little astonished that there is hardly an mention of the Jewish fashion designers and workers in their reviews.

The propaganda films that are running in the exhibit show a chic and elegant life in Paris. The wealthy French right wing (fascist) bourgeoisie carried on as usual incommoded only when their milliner or seamstress was deported to Auschwitz-Birkenau by the efficient civil servants of France. This is the back drop to extraordinary creativity and innovation in accessories like these shoes. The wooded soles were sculpted by Pierre Dunand son of the great Jean Dunand.

Here a bag with an innovative use of wood.

We are led to believe that the French "take" on the woman dressing up during the German occupation, is of a symbol of elegant defiance or perhaps compliance.

May I quote from a review by Charles Lutton of PARIS IN THE THIRD REICH: A HISTORY OF THE GERMAN OCCUPATION, 1940-1944 by David Pryce-Jones

"there was little actual resistance activity in the French capital. Indeed, during the German occupation life in Paris went on much as it had before the war."

"The French mass circulation weekly L'Illustration described the German soldiers as "handsome boys, decent, helpful, above all correct." Hitler even cancelled a huge victory parade that had been planned by the military, so as not to alienate the Parisians. Within a few days after the onset of the German occupation, the schools, restaurants, theaters, trains, newspapers, and other public services were back in operation on a near-normal basis. The Paris police, who outnumbered the Germans, remained on duty throughout the occupation.

Nor did the Germans round up large numbers of political opponents and suspects. Jean-Paul Sartre, Coco Chanel, Dior, Yves Montand, Maurice Chevalier, Picasso, and Albert Camus were among those who lived and worked -- very productively -- in Paris during the German occupation. " Meanwhile high school students who would not wear the "yellow stars" were dragged out of school and shot, the thought is truly horrific particularly since one of the schools mentioned is Lycee Buffon, where my son goes to school.

The below photo shows hats which are all that remains of the thriving couture millinery designer Fanny Berger, who was murdered by the Nazi's. She had a very prosperous and chic establishment in the 8th arrondissement.

When the allies rolled in - fashion changed again. The Vichy government scarves were substituted by English and American emblems. Fashion - at what price?

Even for those who love the fashions of the late thirties and forties, none of the texts and displays in the museum are in English and the exhibition is buried in the weird museum of the resistance hero Jean Moulin, and all but hidden "Museum of the Liberation" - seen below - above a platform at Montparnasse train station.

Culinary Arts & Cooking Adventures in Paris

2009-05-24T13:45:00.017+02:00

When people think of Paris, one of the first things that springs to mind is food and cooking. There are many cooking courses offered in Paris and some by great French chefs. The problem is that most are either only taught in French or you have to be part of a group. So finding a chef who teach in English and allows individual bookings is a constant challenge when the demand is greater than the supply.

This week as part of my constant search for interesting gourmet experiences I came across a chef I had not heard of and saw a photo of what looked like one of the most fantastic kitchens I had ever seen in Paris. So I went to investigate.

I turned up just before the morning pastry and dessert class which had been arranged for a single student. That was already a good sign.

The kitchen combines top of the line Viking equipment with a warm wood ambiance which I quickly reflects found the friendly welcome of Chef Genevieve and her staff.

I was invited to join in the Macaron ( Not to be confused with Macaroons) class but preferred to sit and take pictures. After a few minutes 1 of the staff put on an apron and joined in and then another fellow who I'm still not sure what he does there if anything.

Then a 2nd chef donned an apron and by the time I looked round, there were people everywhere. The cooking school is alike a neighborhood goumet food community center. Just drop in. For myself, I was feeling so comfortable sitting on my plush high-chair up by the counter and in no rush to go anywhere.

Making macaroons is quite a precise art. 30 minutes must have been devoted just to "egg whites" - how to store them, how to mix them by speed, time, and style to obtain the right consistency and how that changes based on what you add into the mix whether it be cocoa, Macha tea, or coloring. I must say - I found it all very interesting but had to leave as they were getting ready to put the "macarons" into the oven and prepare the cream filing. It was time to visit another cooking school.

However, I was invited to return 2 days later for an evening group class at 4:30pm. How could I resist.

Two days later I show up at 4pm to discuss our new partnership and at about 4:30 there are an unbelievable 35 MBA students from Washington University in St. Louis on a 2 week exchange program in Paris, cutting, slicing, pouring, chopping and every other kind of thing you can do to food.

The class was focused on making hors d'ouevres (one-bite appetizer) for as they say in France "Cocktail Dinnertoire", which basically means "no sit down dinner for you tonight".

Everyone had an absolutely brilliant time. Laughing, smiling, eating, picture taking. What more could you ask for. This is what visiting Paris is all about and what better way than around cooking and the culinary arts.

About Macarons

At the Court of Versailles, members of the Dalloyau family, whose descendants later founded the gastronomy house, served macarons to royalty in the then ruling House of Bourbon. If you see the movie Marie Antoinette you will see all the pastel colors they can come in. Today there are specialty producers, who have expanded the repertoire and there is a store in the 7th arronidissement that makes something like 50 varieties of chocolate Macarons and I can tell you they are fantastic. I have another favorite place which is in Dinan, Brittany so if you head up that way let me know.

In the 1830s macarons were served two-by-two with the addition of jams, liqueurs, and spices. The macaron known today is the "Gerbert" macaron, born in the 1880s in the Beleville neighbourhood of Paris. The double-decker macaron filled with cream that is popular today was invented by the French patisserie Laduree.

Tasting Macarons

We offer gourmet tasting tours in Paris and one route is focused on desserts and pastries.

Shopping in Paris - The Discreet Elegance of the Palais Royal

2009-05-16T13:19:00.028+02:00

The truth is I'm not much of a shopper. I'm not the type of person that has a burning need to spend money. However, I must admit I do like discovering interesting shops, which intrigue my sense of style and curiosity. This post is devoted to one of my favorite areas, the Palais Royal, which is right across the street from the Louvre museum.

Van Buren Columns in preparation for a concert

Before we start our shopping tour in the Palais Royal, or just go to let the kids to play on the "oh so typically French" Van Buren columns, we stop by what looks like a very old fashioned clothing store . But there is more than meets the eye here. This store is Saillard, one of the last remaining leather and clothing retailers and manufacturers uxury hunting clothes and bespoke accessories.

Only a few years ago this was the shop to come to, to buy your Falconery Accessories. Demand over the years has wanned so the line was discontinued and there are now a lot of unhappy Sheiks who can't buy "off the rack" Falcon Hoods.

But don't worry. Downstairs they still have a nice range of hunting jackets, horns, whips and they will even custom make medallions for your hunting association. There are about 2-300 hunting association in France with anywhere from 20 -100 members per club and this is where many of them buy their outfits. In total France has more hunters than any other European country.

Anyway time to move on to another somewhat unique store called Bacqueville that sells and custom makes medals for the Legion d'Honneur, Ambassadors and other foreign dictators who can't live without a little Bling in their lives.

Ok - enough of this " we've been around for 200 years" s_ _ _ _ and show me something contemporary.
Let's cross the garden and visit the chic Ateliers de Curiosties of Anne Valerie Hash. The vitrine displays mannequin swith lovely haute couture dresses complimented by an interesting series of oversized photographs by Fabrice Laroche. I did not have enough time to walk through the door that had been left ajar but I think it a store well worth a return trip to. The V&A in London says this"Anne Valérie Hash is one of the few women who designs for women. Her unique style is based on the deconstruction of menswear into impeccably cut womenswear. Its inspiration can be found in Coco Chanel, who borrowed from men’s wardrobes to dress the modern woman of the 1920s, and Madeleine Vionnet, who draped her designs directly onto a reduced mannequin."

Next door is Shiseido's Salon du Palais Royal where you can find Serge Lutens perfumes displayed in a glorious lush, dark purple setting with elegant iron work and circular staircase to make you feel you are in unbearable elegance.

And what's next. A life-size semi-nude model of American fashion designer Rick Owens to welcome customer into his store when he is not there.

Finally, we are near the end of our tour. We pass Stella Mc Cartney's new store and reach the Grand Vefour restaurant. Only a few steps up some winding stairs toward Galerie Vivienne and you will find one of the most innovative luxury stores in France. Derville, named after one of the stores first customers, has been able to custom make men's shoes for under 500euro versus John Loeb where prices start at 2,300euro. How do they do it. Cut out the labor intensive measuring and making of the "last". Its all done with German technology. The measurements are sent to Finland where they make the shoes are hand made with Italian leather and returned to France for finishing. That's they way to do it! And, if the client like his shoes, he can go online and order other styles. Delivery time. Only 6 weeks. So that is all for now. Join us again on another shopping experience around Paris.

From Girona to Paris in the Steps of Dali

2009-05-10T19:16:00.023+02:00

Paris has influenced so many writers and artists for centuries so it was interesting to see some of these influences on my recent trip to Girona in Catalonia Spain, which borders on France. Girona is a magnificent area with a 2 hr drive between the mountain ski stations in the Pyrenees and the Costa Brava (Wild Coast) .

Girona is home to the "best restaurant in the world" El Bulli. And, for the 2nd time I was able to particpate in a cooking class at the local Restaurant's Assocation Culinary School, where we cooked a traditional dish of crayfish and chicken as a starter and Creme Catalan for desert. Very Yummy.

Enough of food and on to the Palau Fondacion in Caldes created by Catalan writer Joseph Palau i Fabre. Palau was the longest living close friend of Picasso and had many insights into the artist.

The foundation displays works by Picasso and Catalan artists. There was a interesting original poster of the first screening of the Andre Malraux film "L'Espoir" about his experience fighting in Spain.

Malraux was an important 20th century writer, politician and was the Minsiter of Culture in France during the De Gaulle years. Like many intellectuals Malraux joined the republicans at the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War. There are also interesting photos of Jean Cocteau, one of which was taken by Brassai.

The Dali Theatre museum in Figueras where Dali was born in 1908 is a truly impressive building. The museum is the 2nd most visited in Spain after the Prado with 4000 works illustrating in 3 dimensions, Dali's dreams, references, ideas.

The building was converted to a museum by Dali with the support of the local governement. It had been closed in 1923 and was the location of Dali's first exhibit at the age of 14.

Dali visited Paris in 1926 and becomes acquainted with Breton, Eluard, Magritte and Ernst and joined the surrealist group. He also met Picasso who greatly influenced his work. For a while Dali lived in Montmartre in an aparment the poet Paul Eluard had found for Gala. He made 2 films in with Luis Buñuel. The second was entitled L'Age D'Or and first shown at Studio 28 in Montmartre.

During the summer 1929, the poet Paul Eluard and his wife Gala visited the painter in his house in the little fishing port of Cadaqués as did many other artists like Matisse and Marcel Duchamp.

Dali was very influenced by the French Barbizon painter Millet, and in his seaside Villa there is a large copy of one of Millet's paintings. Dali was fascinated by this work, and wrote an analysis of it, The Tragic Myth of The Angelus of Millet. Rather than seeing it as a work of spiritual peace, he believed it held messages of repressed sexual aggression. He was also of the opinion that the two figures were praying over their buried child, rather than to the Angelus. Dalí was so insistent on this fact that eventually an X-ray was done of the canvas, confirming his suspicions: the painting contains a painted-over geometric shape strikingly similar to a coffin. Maybe it was for him a symbol of a prayer for his brother who died in childhood. The doorway to this small room is shaped like a coffin.

Passy - Gourmet Shopping with Real Parisians Part III

2009-05-02T23:46:00.018+02:00

The Parisians in Passy are quintessentially Parisian. Their families have been there for years. There is a distinct feeling of privilege. One also comes away with the impression that visitors are most definitely outsiders.

But don't worry, this shouldn't stop you from enjoying a visit to one of the best food market streets in Paris because here it is only all about food, tastes and smells. The best time to people watch is early morning as the stores get underway and the early birds shop for the plumpest pigeons.

The destination point from both rue Passy and rue de l'Annonciation is the covered market in Passy which has a beautifully array of fruit, vegetables and especially fresh seafood from Brittany (Bretagne). Some of the best shellfish in the world come from the Brittany Coast around Cancale and also south near Vannes. I am sure many of the locals have 2nd homes there and further along the coast to La Baule where they escape en masse during the school holidays. On the overalls of these 3 gentleman is written Les Galets d'Etretat. Etretat is another magical place in Normandy with a cliff section call the Elephant's tusk, made famous by Monet in one of his paintings, which hangs in the Caen Museum situated in the local castle and also worth a visit.

After shopping, the locals sit and have coffee in one of the many cafes on the street or for the 'food officiandos' an early lunch at the Oyster Bar.

Its time to go home with a full wheelie cart, which I am surprised has not become a better known cultural fashion icon.

Not everyone wants to be one of the 'Shoppinistas'.

And then there are those who have no choice.

Passy - A Charming Village in the Heart of Paris Part II

2009-04-25T17:43:00.014+02:00

Passy is an exclusive area of Paris, France, located in the 16th arrondissement, on the right bank. It is home to many of the city's wealthiest residents. Old money. Inherited money. In Passy time has not seemed to move forward. The villages of Passy, Chaillot and Auteuil were incorporated into Paris under Napoleon III in 1860 to form the 16th with the Bois de Boulogne, which is a marvellous place to take bike rides. From metro Passy one climbs the stairs and heads up to the roundabout where you make a left to one of the most interesting streets in Paris, rue Raynouard. Here you'll see just lovely iron work on both 19th and early 20th century art deco buildings.

It took me 20 minutes just to walk about 50 meters as there was so much to photograph with each building more interesting than the next. On your left as you walk towards the market, the apartments are pearched high enough to have a magnificent view of the Seine and the not so magnificent high risers on the Quai de Grenelle in the 15th.

Further down the street at number 47 you will find the museum and home of Balzac who lived here between 1840 and 1847. He lived here under a false name and chose this location so as to make quick escapes to rue Berton in order to avoid his creditors.

Across the street at number 66 is the former lodging of Benjamin Franklin who resided here while negotiating an alliance with Louis XVI and erected here the first lightning rod in Paris. Looking back towards the Eiffel Tower you have a great view of a superb neo-classically style building built in 1930 by one of the great architects of the period, Auguste Peret who used concrete construction to achieve simple lines, plain surfaces and classical proportions.

Peret was also the architect of the Theatre des Champs Elysee 1911-1913 as well as many other important buidings. Thisbuilding housed his architectural firm and apartments for himself and his brother. Turning the corner is the market street of rue de l'Annonciation and the charming 19th century Eglise Notre-Dame-de-Grâce-de-Passy chapel.

Across the street is Susan's restaurant, which by all accounts serves the best Chili in Europe and is next door another superb Art Deco Builiding. I did not get a chance to eat there, but I can say I have not had anything close to a decent Mexican meal in Paris.

I head off toward Passy market leaving the steep hill side streets behind us. In the final part I'll look at the people who live in Passy.

Passy - A Bridge Between Two Worlds Part I

2009-04-25T15:48:00.019+02:00

I love the bridges in Paris. When I cross them I don't just feel they are taking me to the other side but to another time. Close to the Eiffel Tower is a footbridge originally named the 'Passerelle de Passy', one of the great architectural and engineering masterpieces, built for the first Paris Universal Exhibition of 1878 and made famous in Last Tango in Paris.

In the center and to the east side of the of the bridgeand is a marvelous winged horseman from which there is a marvellous view of the Eiffel Tower and the famous Bateaux Mouches boats cruising up and down the river Seine with their thousands of foreign visitors enjoying one of the most beautiful ways to experience Paris. Under the horseman is a commemorative plaque for the French Legion which withstood an attack from Rommel at Bir Hakeim in North Africa. The bridge is now known as Pont Bir Hakeim.

On the banks of the river house boats are moored by a few lucky individuals.

The bridge joins the left and right bank and above the pedestrian section runs the number 6 train line to metro Charles de Gaulle Etoile stopping at metro Passy.

This is one of my favorite metro rides and for me starts at metro La Motte Piquet.

I love exiting at Passy and walking up the steps towards rue de Passy see the Belle Epoque buildings which which get me in the mood of my trip through time.

Stay tuned for Part II and see Village of Passy right in the heart of the 16th arrondissement.

Hermes to the Rescue

2009-04-20T21:26:00.019+02:00

Last week my wife dragged me over to rue Royal to look at a new range of rings being sold by Bucheron called the Macaron.

If you want my advice head 50 meters down the street to La Duree buy a box of the real thing and save a few thousand euros. You'll thank me later and tell me how sweet I am.

On one side of the street are silverware and tabletop stores many of whom have extended their brands into jewelry trying to stay afloat in an industry that has matured long ago. So how are they all doing ? Excuse my French but it's mostly Merde. It's pretty depressing stuff except. Judge for yourself...

Swarovski - 650euro for the watch on the right. You gotta be kidding me!!! Where did they design this. Hong Kong, China, Taiwan ...

Christofle - They seems to have figured out that its best to stay with something simple. The lines are clean and the jewelry hangs correctly. Cute window.

Bernadaud - They really innovated in their porcelaine plates and cups but their jewlery is gag awful. And below is the best of it. There were other black phallic pendants that I dare not show in case I get arrested for adult content.

Lalique - still trying recapture glories of the past. Come on guys. Who designed this? Must be a guy. Think about how the wings rest on the womans chest!!!

In these hard times shouldn't these brands focus on their core business and do what they do best rather than try and be something they are not. Because, when it comes to jewerly - They ain't got a clue.

Let's look at Hermes when it comes to their core business - leather and leather bags. A sense of relief comes over me when I see their horseman striding over their building on rue Fauborg St Honore.

In their typical approach to innovation and excellence, only they could have created this product and displayed it so outrageously and with such good taste.

Peacock plume feathers adorning a Kelly Bag with an amazing painting behind of a native an American Indian with a fabulous Bollywood /Pricilla Queen of the Desert Border. Now that's class!

It's just my opinion as a graduate gemologist, former jewlery manufacturer and luxury brand management consultant. Yes. That's true too.

Anyone Can be in Films

2009-04-18T12:22:00.026+02:00

So here I am at the film school in St Denis. My kid is making his first short movie set in a fantasy medieval village with a Bodhisattva twist at the end with rivers and ferrymen. You know the sort of thing I'm talking about. So Chase plays the Big B and the old ferryman is played by a veteran French actor Lucien Jerome.

Anyhow, Chase goes off to do the rehearsal passing through a cafeteria for a mint tea and though the doorway I see him in a heated discussion with a wild looking guy with a big smile. I am meanwhilst, talking to a young software developer/actor we had met the previous year in a theater class Chase took run by Word for Word out of San Francisco. 5 minutes later Mr. Smiley bursts out the door, walks over and says" you gotta help me". "Why" I said in dismay. It's Saturday morning, my eyes are half open, 9am and I have not even had my first cup of tea yet.

Roberto is from Columbia, lives in Sweden and staying in Paris for a few months. Doesn't know a word of French. He tells me he's filming an anti-smoking advertisement the next day and his main actor just left for London. He needs someone my age, male and breathing. He says he is desperate. " God knows he must have been to ask me! "I've been invited to a brunch hosted by my chef Eric in Montmartre Sunday and I could not be free until 3 or 4" I say, hoping this will probably be too late. We got talking and I found out he had been the cameraman on a documentary made about slavery and I had just seen the film Amazing Grace for the first time a few nights earlier, so as I don't believe in coincidences so I told him that if we was really desperate and could not find a real actor I would help out.

To cut a long story short. The next afternoon, I'm in an underground passage in Vincennes with a fake scar glued to my neck playing a guy with throat cancer chasing a young girl (see above) to give her back a wallet she dropped but she thinks I'm after her to do her a mischief.

Chase was the gaffer because 2 sound people didn't show. Everyone pitched in including one of the sound man's a cigarette toting friends who happened to come by later in the evening dressed in a baby blue track suite with designer eyebrows and silver bling. The Finnish cameraman and Portuguese sound man smoked through the entire afternoon and evening. I guess they were not persuaded.

So that's how it is at EICAR. Everyone works together, and who knows, this may help St Denis become the Hollywood of Paris one day - Froggywood. Catchy don't you think?

A Ray of Hope in St Denis

2009-04-17T21:32:00.009+02:00

Porte de La Chapelle is one of the gateways into Paris. But don't be distracted by sunny skies, and locals smiling and chatting on their cell phones. This place is a doorway to a darker side of Paris where homeless people monitor the ring road and various types clean the window screens of unsuspecting drivers as the fly off the motorway. Fortunately, I'm going in the other direction today.

A few steps away is Saint Denis which as you all know, has a Basilica where most of the kings of France were are buried. They no longer rule. Their turf has been taken over by, yes you guessed it Korean and Japanese electronic companies who have their flags flying high above the skyline dominating the working class.

St Denis has suffered numerous setbacks. It lost most of it's population during the Hundred Year War, lost it's name during the French Revolution, was run by Communist Mayors for 40 years at the beginning of the 20th century, and suffered from the economic depression of the 70s and 80s leaving its heavily industrialized base in disarray.

After a mad dash across several lanes of traffic one arrives to the welcome sign of St Denis and its the local cemetery which to the annoyance of its renters is not as quiet as advertised due to 6 very large, loud and angry guard dogs who watch the car dealership next door.

Despite the fact the crime rate in St. Denis is double the national average there is a glimmer of hope?

A little way further down the road is an office/warehouse park. Inside are several film studios and EICAR International Film School where young students are smiling. Is that possible? Have I left St. Denis?

This important question will be answered in the next post entitled "Anyone Can be in Films"